M7252 Easy-to-Sew Pullover Shirt Pattern by Nancy Zieman | McCalls Pattern CompanyI truly love to sew; yet my schedule—like yours—doesn’t always allow time for this pleasure. When designing and making this trio of knit tops, I was pleasantly surprised that I was able to cut out the pattern and sew the top during an afternoon. Follow these streamline steps included in the pattern and you, too, will have time to enjoy your sewing passion with a comfy, trendy knit top.

Last week, I shared my new sewing pattern from The McCall Pattern Company in this blog post. The first top (the diagonal stripe top) is created using a lightweight knit fabric, a sewing machine and a wobble stitch. This week, we’ll use the same four easy pattern pieces to create a warm fleece pullover with a serger technique.

M7252 Easy-to-Sew Pullover Shirt Pattern by Nancy Zieman | McCalls Pattern Company

Review: In options A and B, styles feature differing hem lengths, which make this top excellent to wear with tights, jeans or skirts. The styles are also drafted for sewing machine stitching or serger construction. Shown in style C, the top has an asymmetrical wrap across the body. The pullover is a truly versatile piece.

The pullover top may be sewn on a serger or a sewing machine set to a wobble stitch. And the best part: The pattern only has four pieces!

M7252 Pullover Pattern by Nancy ZiemanM7252 Pullover Pattern by Nancy Zieman

Construction Details


Center Front and Center Back Exposed Serged Seams


  • Choose thread that coordinates or matches the fabric. Set serger for 4-thread overlock stitch with the width setting at “M” or a 1/4″ stitch width.
  • Test the serger settings and thread color choices on a scrap of fabric before serging the actual fabric pieces. Adjust the stitch length to achieve the desired appearance.
  • Serge outer edges of Center Front and Center Back seams.

Note from Nancy: When serging fleece or other thick knit fabrics, beginning serging on an “anchor cloth,” an extra piece of fabric. Align the project fabric next to this starter fabric and proceed to serge the edge or seam. Later, clip off the anchor cloth and save it for the next seam.  This little tip assures that the beginning of the seam or edges have perfectly even stitches.


  • Seal thread ends at hemline with a seam sealant.
  • Stack Front pieces—right sides up—with a 1/2″ overlap, aligning the outer or left-needle thread stitching lines of both pieces.


  • Straight stitch, or wobble stitchsewing along the right-needle thread.

  • Repeat steps on the Center Back seam.
  • Serge along the hemline of Front and Back pieces.

Note from Nancy: With exposed serged edges, it is difficult to have an even stopping and starting point when serging in the round along hemlines and outer edges of the collar and cuffs. For this reason, I serge the outer edges before sewing the side seams. I hope you’ll like that approach, too!

 Collar and Neckline

The following photos feature the black and white knit fabric, but the construction for the red fleece pullover follows the same steps.

  • Align edges and pin Center Back seam of Collar, right sides together, matching notches.
  • Stitch or serge seam.
  • Press seam flat; then press open. Press serged seam to one side.
  • Serge along the hemline.
  • Press under 1/4″ and topstitch.

Attach Collar to Neckline

  • Quarter-mark the neckline of the collar and neckline of the top. To quarter-mark, fold the opening in half and in half again, placing a pin at each of the four folds.

  • Align edges and pin the WRONG side of the collar to the RIGHT side of the neckline at each quarter mark.
  • Stitch or serge with 1/4″ seam allowances.

  • Press seam flat; then press toward the top.
  • Topstitch seam to top.

  • Fold top of collar toward the neckline.

Underarm Seam and Hem

  • Align edges and pin Front to Back along underarm seams, right sides together, matching notches.
  • Stitch or serge with a 1/4″ seam allowance.
  • Press seam flat; then press open. Press serged seam to one side.

Cuff with Exposed Edges—View B

  • Align edges and pin one side seam of cuff, right sides together.
  • Stitch or serge one side seam. Press seam flat; then press to one side. Serge outer edge of cuff.

  • Seal thread ends with a seam sealant.
  • Align and pin remaining side seam, right sides together, matching notches.
  • Stitch or serge with a 1/4″ seam allowance.
  • Press seam flat; press serged seam to one side.

Attach Cuff to Sleeve

  • Align and pin WRONG side of cuff to the RIGHT side of the sleeve, matching edges and matching notches.
  • Stitch or serge with 1/4″ seam allowances.

  • Turn top right side out. Fold up cuff hem and align with the cuff seam. Hand stitch top cuff to sleeve at each side seam.

The new pullover is finished and ready to wear!

M7252 Easy-to-Sew Pullover Shirt Pattern by Nancy Zieman | McCalls Pattern Company

Demystify the fear about working with knit fabrics. You can sew them easily and with confidence with tips and techniques in my book: Sew Knits with Confidence. Sewing With Nancy also has a two-part series featuring knits. Watch Part One and Part Two online.

Sew Knits with Confidence by Nancy Zieman

This book is a lifetime compilation of techniques that make sewing fun and easy for all skill levels. You’ll learn about sewing tools, easy sewing techniques, how to use a sewing machine and serger, how to select and use fabrics and patterns, and how easy it is to sew simple projects.

Watch Sew Knits with Confidence (Part One and Part Two)on Sewing With Nancy online.

To watch Sewing With Nancy on your iPad, iPod Touch, or iPhone, download the app.

Sew Knits with Confidence Nancy Zieman Online TV show

Nancy Zieman's Blog Giveaway

For a chance to win a copy of pattern M7252, from The McCall Pattern Company, please leave a comment below sharing what knit fabric you’d choose to make this new fall fashion top. Two patterns will be randomly given away—must be US residents.


Bye for now,

Nancy Zieman The Blog

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