I often hear the stitching community say they are afraid of zippers. Today, I’d like to demystify the invisible zipper. It is one of the most useful zippers in garment/apparel and home décor sewing. The application is straightforward after you learn The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew! To seamlessly—pun intended—insert an invisible zipper into the seam use this modified approach, attaching the facing before sewing the zipper. It’s a new approach and one of my absolute easiest sewing tips. Conquer the zipper fears!
How to Insert an Invisible Zipper
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the top or dress.
- Fuse interfacing to the front and back neckline facing fabrics.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the facing pieces.
- Do not stitch the center back seam at this point.
- Align the facing to the garment, right sides together, matching notches.
- Stitch the facing to the neckline.
- Grade the seam allowances, using a pinking blade with a rotary cutter for the fastest and easiest results.
- Press the seam allowances toward the facing.
- Understitch, stitching the seam allowances to the facing. Use a multi zigzag stitch.
- Flatten out the zipper tape, pressing the teeth to the outside.
- Place a piece of tape or a pin above the zipper stop on one side of the zipper.
- Mark the 5/8″ seam allowances along both sides of the center back seam. Begin marking at the neckline seam, and continue marking the length of the zipper opening.
- Align one side of the zipper tape to the corresponding side of the dress, meeting the zipper teeth to the 5/8″ marking and placing the zipper top slightly below the neckline seam.
- Pin one side of the zipper to the fabric.
- Attach the Invisible Zipper Foot. Starting at the neckline seam, position the presser foot on top of the zipper tape with the needle stitching along side of the zipper teeth.
- After stitching, close the zipper to check that the zipper stop is directly below the neckline seam.
- Align the second half of the zipper at the top of the neckline, placing the remaining side of the zipper at the same distance from the top of the neckline.
- Align the zipper teeth to the marking; pin. Then, stitch the zipper to the remaining side of the dress/top.
- After stitching, check to make certain the neckline edges align.
- Fold the facing over the zipper tape; hand stitch.
- Pin the lower portion of the seam from the hem to the end of the zipper.
- Move the invisible zipper foot completely to the left of the needle. Stitch from the zipper stopping point to the hem.
- Ta dah!
The Invisible Zipper technique, plus much more is printed in The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew.
Kudos to Diane Dhein, the editor, and Laure Noe, the illustrator, for making this book possible.
The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew chapters include:
- Sewing Notions
- Sewing Machine Confidence
- Serger Spotlight
- Fabric Facts
- Sewing Basics
- Beyond the Basics
Watch Absolute Easiest Way to Sew (Part One, Part Two, and Part Three) on Sewing With Nancy online.
For a chance to win a copy of The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew book, let me know what sewing tip/technique you like the most or would like help fine-tuning.
Bye for now,