How to sew a zipper into a seam is a commonly requested sewing technique. I’d like to share with you the absolute easiest way I’ve found to insert a zipper. Use tape instead of pins. Curious? It’s found in my book The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew.
How to Sew a Centered Zipper—A Pinless Technique
- Purchase a zipper 2″ longer than needed. With the longer length, you won’t have trouble stitching around the bulky zipper pull.
- If the zipper is more than 2″ longer, wrap fusible interfacing below the finished length, press the interfacing, and trim off the extra zipper tape.
- Baste the seam of the zipper opening with right sides together.
- Backstitch at the end of the zipper opening, then stitch the rest of the seam with a standard stitch length.
- Press the seam open.
- Put the right side of the zipper next to the seam allowance with the pull tab extending past the top of the fabric.
- Use strips of 1/2″ wide tape such as Sewer’s Fix-It Tape to hold the zipper to the wrong side of the fabric.
- On the right side, center another piece of 1/2″ tape over the zipper seamline.
- Attach a zipper foot.
- Stitch across the bottom and up one side of the zipper, guiding the foot along the tape.
- Repeat, stitching across the bottom and up the other side of the tape. Stitching in the same direction for each side of the zipper helps eliminate puckers.
- When stitching is complete, pull the thread tails at the bottom of the zipper to the wrong side and tie, then clip.
- Remove the tape on the outside and inside of the zipper.
- Remove the basting stitches in the seamline.
- Bartack (zigzag at a zero stitch length) across the top of the zipper tape on each side, move the tab down into the fabric, and cut off the excess tape above the bartacks. (Optional)
- That’s it!
All my favorite sewing tips are in one book.
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The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew chapters include:
- Sewing Notions
- Sewing Machine Confidence
- Serger Spotlight
- Patterns
- Fabric Facts
- Sewing Basics
- Beyond the Basics
Watch Sewing With Nancy online.
For additional sewing insights and my favorite sewing techniques, check out my 3-part Sewing With Nancy online TV series, The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew.
Bye for now,
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Can this be done without a zipper foot? I’m attempting to make a couch sized outdoor cushion and have a 6’ zipper to put in, but no zipper foot. It’s been a VERY long time since 10th grade sewing class…
THis is genius!!! Even just basting the fabric closed temporarily so that you end up with an even look… WOW!!! Now I wonder if I will remember this when I have to put in a zipper?
Oh my word, I’ve been sewing for more than 50 years and I absolutely dreaded putting zippers in. Now I’m reading these instructions and thinking, “Why didn’t I think of this? So simple!” No more wonky jogs at the top of the zipper (despite my best efforts and numerous methods tries). Thank you!
Esta cremallera sirve para colocar en dotaciones gracias
What stops the zipper pull coming off the top of the opening? You say to make a bar tack on each side, but I can’ see how that would properly replace the plastic end. Sorry if I’m being dense!
Hi Barbara,
The bar tacks do prevent the zipper pull from sliding off the zipper ends.
I look forward to you giving it a try!
Hi Nancy, thanks for this great tutorial! Thank you also for being so awesomely informative! I’ve been watching and following your advice since I was a little girl.
Thank you, is a very useful method
Hi Nancy, I am making a lined cosmetic bag. I want to install a zipper onto both sides of the closure, something like a bound buttonhole. I have done this only a few times before and cannot remember how I did it. I would appreciate if you can jog my memory. Thank you
I would like to know an easy way to put a zipper into a jacket. I saw a program of yours about this on tv. Greatlt appreciated!
Hi I have the same question as Debbie I am not sure I understand the backtact at the end. I guess the little bit over the edge confused me. I love the series, The absolute easiest way to,……… I have learned so much and enjoy your program on PBS, thanks for making sewing even more enjoyable. TJ
Hello Nancy
I am so glad you exist and that you are so nice and gentle in explaining. I loved your zip ‘lesson’ but just one thing: how does it work in the MIDDLE of a seam? I mean when you are doing a cushion and you are inserting a zip that is shorter than the entire seam length (so that it sits prettily in the middle of the seam once you have removed the basting) how do I do this? In your lesson the zip goes right up to the fabric edge which you can’t do if the zip is in the middle of the fabric seam …
Sorry for being so long in explaining and I hope you understand what I am getting at.
Very best wishes
Julia
(I buy heaps of stuff from you too which is sent to me here in France and the service is always brilliant)
Julia, no need to apologize! I totally understand what you’re asking.
Notice how the bottom of the zipper is stitched with a square finish. The top of the zipper would be sewn the same way. Stitch along the sides and both the top and bottom. I hope that this helps.
If you would like further help, please send us this question to [email protected] and we’ll draw you a little picture!
Nancy
What a great idea! I haven’t done a zipper in a long time, and when I learned, they certainly didn’t have that cool tape! Pinning for future reference! TFS!
Thank you!
Brilliant. Thank you.
thanks Nancy, You make it look so easy! I will certainly try this
I use painters tape often in my projects to hold things in place. It is wide enough to really hold something down but not so sticky that it pills or pulls your fabric. If you happen to sew through it, the tape perforates nicely and pulls up with little effort.
I have used scotch tape for this method for many years and now I do it “Nancy’s” way. Love all the easy tricks I’ve learned from Nancy.
Wow and wow! I just might be able to put a zipper in by myself after this tutorial. There’s only one part I’m not sure about. The Bartacking part at the end. Can someone explain that part again? Not sure why I’m having a hard time visualizing how to do it.
Are these helpful hints in Nancy’s A to Z book?
Thanks.
You made this look soooo easy. Maybe I can put a zipper in now. Thank you so much.. : )
I’m 55 years old and I’ve always done this, my sewing teacher in school taught it to us. But I came up with the idea to use tape to hold my button’s in place while I machine stitch them. And I also use fine nylon string and zig zag over it to pull in large gathers like in the big hoop skirts of my 1860′s period dresses, once I have everything either pin or sewed in place I remove the nylon string.
Thank you!
I just love Nancy and her shows!!!!! I was visiting my father in Texas and while watching tv, I saw where a person could call in for the book. I was unable to buy it then and now am able. I don’t know how to purchase it or it’s still available, please advise if,when possible. Thank you, Linda
Linda, click here to purchase the book: http://www.nancysnotions.com/product/nancy+ziemans+sewing+a+to+z+book.do?extid=fbnz&code=NNOADV-1310
Wow! My MIL has tried teaching me zippers a half dozen times, looking at your tutorial, I now know exactly what I’ve been doing wrong, Thanks!
THANK YOU SO MUCH! I have been avoiding making cloths without zippers for 40 years. Now I can!
Isn’t it ironic- I’ve been trying to insert “the perfect zipper” since the 1960′s. Now fashion gives us great big ugly metal zippers which are exposed as a “fashion statement”! Not for me, however, I’ll stick to Nancy’s method!
I don’t understand what the purpose of cutting two inches off the bottom of the zipper is. ??
Lynanne, I used a zipper that was longer than needed. Often, I purchase zippers as long as possible, not knowing where it will be used. This step just shows how to easily shorten the zipper. Hope this helps.
Even though I have been sewing for many, many years, I purchased the “Sewing A to Z” book as it covers many new techniques for various applications made possible by the wide range of products now available. It is one of the best investments I have made and sits by my sewing machine within easy reach. Thank you, Nancy, for such a helpful, easy to understand book!
If you put the zipper past the top of the garment, how do you finish the neck facing over it?
Marsha,
Pin and stitch the facing to the neckline. You’ll be able to stitch through the zipper teeth unless it is a metal zipper. Finish the facing per the traditional technique. The zipper will close right up to the neckline.
Would that make extra bulk in the seam as opposed to the traditional methods? I’m trying to decide what types of fabrics this could be used on. I’m not sure I quite understand.
You couldn’t do this on anything lined, correct?
Jen, this method really doesn’t add bulk. I’ve used the method on all types of fabrics. If the lining is added separately and hand stitched around the zipper, the method works, too. This is just one way of inserting a zipper. You might be more comfortable with your own process.