How to sew a zipper into a seam is a commonly requested sewing technique. I’d like to share with you the absolute easiest way I’ve found to insert a zipper. Use tape instead of pins. Curious? It’s found in my book Nancy Zieman’s Sewing A to Z.
How to Sew a Centered Zipper—A Pinless Technique
- Purchase a zipper 2″ longer than needed. With the longer length, you won’t have trouble stitching around the bulky zipper pull.
- If the zipper is more than 2″ longer, wrap fusible interfacing below the finished length, press the interfacing, and trim off the extra zipper tape.
- Baste the seam of the zipper opening with right sides together.
- Backstitch at the end of the zipper opening, then stitch the rest of the seam with a standard stitch length.
- Press the seam open.
- Put the right side of the zipper next to the seam allowance with the pull tab extending past the top of the fabric.
- Use strips of 1/2″ wide tape such as Sewer’s Fix-It Tape to hold the zipper to the wrong side of the fabric.
- On the right side, center another piece of 1/2″ tape over the zipper seamline.
- Attach a zipper foot.
- Stitch across the bottom and up one side of the zipper, guiding the foot along the tape.
- Repeat, stitching across the bottom and up the other side of the tape. Stitching in the same direction for each side of the zipper helps eliminate puckers.
- When stitching is complete, pull the thread tails at the bottom of the zipper to the wrong side and tie, then clip.
- Remove the tape on the outside and inside of the zipper.
- Remove the basting stitches in the seamline.
- Bartack (zigzag at a zero stitch length) across the top of the zipper tape on each side, move the tab down into the fabric, and cut off the excess tape above the bartacks. (Optional)
- That’s it!
You can find several more zipper techniques in my book Nancy Zieman’s Sewing A to Z.
Watch Program one of Sewing A to Z. Click here.
Watch Program two of Sewing A to Z. Click here.
Bye for now,
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