The absolute Easiest Way to Sew in a Zipper



How to sew a zipper into a seam is a commonly requested sewing technique. I’d like to share with you the absolute easiest way I’ve found to insert a zipper. Use tape instead of pins. Curious? It’s found in my book Nancy Zieman’s Sewing A to Z.

How to Sew a Centered Zipper—A Pinless Technique

  • Purchase a zipper 2″ longer than needed. With the longer length, you won’t have trouble stitching around the bulky zipper pull.
  • If the zipper is more than 2″ longer, wrap fusible interfacing below the finished length, press the interfacing, and trim off the extra zipper tape.


The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew in a Zipper by Nancy Zieman



  • Baste the seam of the zipper opening with right sides together.
  • Backstitch at the end of the zipper opening, then stitch the rest of the seam with a standard stitch length.


The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew in a Zipper by Nancy Zieman



  • Press the seam open.
  • Put the right side of the zipper next to the seam allowance with the pull tab extending past the top of the fabric.
  • Use strips of 1/2″ wide tape such as Sewer’s Fix-It Tape to hold the zipper to the wrong side of the fabric.


The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew in a Zipper by Nancy Zieman



  • On the right side, center another piece of 1/2″ tape over the zipper seamline.


The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew in a Zipper by Nancy Zieman



  • Attach a zipper foot.
  • Stitch across the bottom and up one side of the zipper, guiding the foot along the tape.


The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew in a Zipper by Nancy Zieman




The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew in a Zipper by Nancy Zieman



  • Repeat, stitching across the bottom and up the other side of the tape. Stitching in the same direction for each side of the zipper helps eliminate puckers.


The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew in a Zipper by Nancy Zieman




The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew in a Zipper by Nancy Zieman



  • When stitching is complete, pull the thread tails at the bottom of the zipper to the wrong side and tie, then clip.


The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew in a Zipper by Nancy Zieman



  • Remove the tape on the outside and inside of the zipper.
  • Remove the basting stitches in the seamline.
  • Bartack (zigzag at a zero stitch length) across the top of the zipper tape on each side, move the tab down into the fabric, and cut off the excess tape above the bartacks. (Optional)


The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew in a Zipper by Nancy Zieman



  •  That’s it!

You can find several more zipper techniques in my book Nancy Zieman’s Sewing A to Z.

Nancy Zieman's Sewing A to Z book

Also learn how to stitch a lapped zipper when watching the third episode of the 3-part series on Sewing A to Z


Watch Sewing With Nancy online with host/producer Nancy ZIeman



Watch Program one of Sewing A to Z. Click here.

Watch Program two of Sewing A to Z. Click here.

Watch on your iPad, iPod Touch, or iPhone. Have you downloaded the app?

Sewing With Nancy app

Bye for now,

Nancy Zieman The Blog

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