The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew Invisible Zippers

How to sew an invisible zipper by Nancy Zieman as seen on Sewing With Nancy

The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew Invisible Zippers

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How to sew an invisible zipper by Nancy Zieman as seen on Sewing With Nancy

Sew it simple. Sew to have fun. How? It’s straightforward after you learn The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew! This time, learn how to insert an invisible zipper. To seamlessly—pun intended—insert an invisible zipper into the seam use this modified approach, attaching the facing before sewing the zipper. It’s a new approach and one of my absolute easiest sewing tips.

How to Insert an Invisible Zipper

  • Stitch the shoulder seams of the top or dress.
  • Fuse interfacing to the front and back neckline facing fabrics.
  • Stitch the shoulder seams of the facing pieces.
  • Do not stitch the center back seam at this point.
  • Align the facing to the garment, right sides together, matching notches.
  • Stitch the facing to the neckline.

How to sew an invisible zipper by Nancy Zieman as seen on Sewing With Nancy

  • Grade the seam allowances, using a pinking blade with a rotary cutter for the fastest and easiest results.

How to sew an invisible zipper by Nancy Zieman as seen on Sewing With Nancy

  • Press the seam allowances toward the facing.

How to sew an invisible zipper by Nancy Zieman as seen on Sewing With Nancy

  • Understitch, stitching the seam allowances to the facing. Use a multizigzag.

How to sew an invisible zipper by Nancy Zieman as seen on Sewing With Nancy

  • Flatten out the zipper tape, pressing the teeth to the outside.

How to sew an invisible zipper by Nancy Zieman as seen on Sewing With Nancy

  • Place a piece of tape or a pin above the zipper stop on one side of the zipper.

How to sew an invisible zipper by Nancy Zieman as seen on Sewing With Nancy

  • Mark the 5/8″ seam allowances along both sides of the center back seam. Begin marking at the neckline seam, and continue marking the length of the zipper opening.
  • Align one side of the zipper tape to the corresponding side of the dress, meeting the zipper teeth to the 5/8″ marking and placing the zipper top slightly below the neckline seam.

How to sew an invisible zipper by Nancy Zieman as seen on Sewing With Nancy

  • Pin one side of the zipper to the fabric.

How to sew an invisible zipper by Nancy Zieman as seen on Sewing With Nancy

  • Attach the Invisible Zipper Foot. Starting at the neckline seam, position the presser foot on top of the zipper tape with the needle stitching along side of the zipper teeth.

How to sew an invisible zipper by Nancy Zieman as seen on Sewing With Nancy

  • After stitching, close the zipper to check that the zipper stop is directly below the neckline seam.
  • Align the second half of the zipper at the top of the neckline, placing the remaining side of the zipper at the same distance from the top of the neckline.
  • Align the zipper teeth to the marking; pin. Then, stitch the zipper to the remaining side of the dress/top.

How to sew an invisible zipper by Nancy Zieman as seen on Sewing With Nancy

  • After stitching, check to make certain the neckline edges align.
  • Fold the facing over the zipper tape; hand stitch.

How to sew an invisible zipper by Nancy Zieman as seen on Sewing With Nancy

  • Pin the lower portion of the seam from the hem to the end of the zipper.
  • Move the invisible zipper foot completely to the left of the needle. Stitch from the zipper stopping point to the hem.

How to sew an invisible zipper by Nancy Zieman as seen on Sewing With Nancy

  •  Ta da!

How to sew an invisible zipper by Nancy Zieman as seen on Sewing With Nancy

The Invisible Zipper technique, plus much more is printed in The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew.

How to sew an invisible zipper by Nancy Zieman Sewing With Nancy

Kudos to Diane Dhein, the editor, and Laure Noe, the illustrator, for making this book possible.

The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew chapters include:

    • Sewing Notions
    • Sewing Machine Confidence
    • Serger Spotlight
    • Patterns
    • Fabric Facts
    • Sewing Basics
    • Beyond the Basics

The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew by Sewing With Nancy Zieman

Watch Absolute Easiest Way to Sew (Part OnePart Two, and Part Threeon Sewing With Nancy online.

Screen shot 2014 12 08 at 3.18.47 PM

Bye for now,

Nancy Zieman The Blog

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97 Comments

  • Gretchen Riggs
    December 11, 2014

    I really like the invisible zipper. It’s great!

  • Cynthia D
    December 11, 2014

    THANK YOU SO MUCH for posting these instructions!! I have felt too intimidated to even TRY inserting an invisible zipper before! You make it appear SO EASY!!! Thanks!! Will give this a try on my next project!

  • Connie Bobcik
    December 11, 2014

    I have never put in an invisible zipper, so having that info in print to follow would be very helpful. I’m sure there are many other techniques that I learned in years past that have changed and would be helpful in getting me back into more construction.

  • Shelley Mallory
    December 11, 2014

    fusible interfacing, when and where

  • Samantha
    December 11, 2014

    I have to say there is always room for improvement, but hidden zippers intimidate me a little bit.

  • Cheryl M
    December 11, 2014

    Zippers have always given me fits! I will try this method…maybe I will have success. Thanks for the opportunity to win a copy of your book!

  • Bea Ramirez
    December 11, 2014

    Do you need a special zipper foot for the invisible zipper or can I use the same zipper foot that I have?

  • Denise Z. G.
    December 11, 2014

    I like all your techniques for sewing tasks. It would be great to have a copy of this for my daughter!

  • Linda
    December 11, 2014

    I love the method of inserting the invisible zipper! Best way yet!

  • Alice B.
    December 11, 2014

    Button Holes and Zippers have always been a problem for me. Any help in that area is greatly appreciated.

  • Sue Watson
    December 11, 2014

    I have trouble zipping up dresses with zippers in the back of dresses. Is there a way to put the zipper elsewhere. I have a dress pattern that has three panels in the front of the dress. I was wondering if it would be possible putting the zipper in one of the front seams. I have arthritis and can’t get my arms back to zip up the back.
    Thank you

  • Gwen Hayes
    December 11, 2014

    I would like to enter for a copy of The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew book.
    I was given the task of shortening a school choir dress and was told I could NOT cut, press or Permanently mark the dress. The skirt on this dress is in 8 sections. They are narrow at the top and wider at the hem.
    I must shorten it 7″. The difference between the hem and where I need to place the new hem gives me 4″ additional fabric in each of the 8 sections. How can I ease in 4″ without this looking awful. And of course, wouldn’t you know, it’s some sort of synthetic satin.
    Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
    Thanks, Gwen Hayes

  • Ilana
    December 11, 2014

    I like this invisible zipper technique.

  • Susan Wilson
    December 11, 2014

    I still do not feel confident in adjusting the tension on my serger. Thanks for writing this great book, and for the opportunity to receive a copy.

  • Susan Wilson
    December 11, 2014

    I still am not confident in adjusting the tension on my serger. Really enjoyed this article on the invisible zippers. Thank you for writing this great book and for the opportunity to receive a copy.

  • Tina
    December 11, 2014

    You make it so easy and clear. Thanks. I would like tips on different kind of hems/finishes and when to use them.

  • kim
    December 11, 2014

    I can not wait to try this technique for the zipper. I have enjoyed your show for years and learned so much from you. Thank you.

  • Susan cournia
    December 11, 2014

    I would like a blog about button hole making to refresh my memory

  • PJ
    December 11, 2014

    As others have said, zippers and buttonholes have always been my down fall. They can make or break a beautiful garment and make it ‘home made’ instead of ‘hand made’. Thanks for all the help and encouragement.

  • Kim M. Harrington
    December 11, 2014

    Wow! That looks Awesome! EASY PEASY 🙂

  • Linda
    December 11, 2014

    I have to sew a zipper up the front of a fake fur sleeper for a granddaughter who thinks she’s a horse. I’m a little nervous about this.

  • Sue Martin
    December 11, 2014

    Thanks so much for the clear, step-by-step directions. Will definitely give this a try. Would love to know how to apply fusible interfacing without causing the fabric to ‘bubble.’

  • Cheryl Chesnut
    December 11, 2014

    I would love to have a copy of your book. No matter how well we sew we can always use some help once in a while. I also teach others to sew and they can always use visuals. I always recommend your books to my students. Your techniques are always easy to understand. There are always times when we all just can’t put techniques into words. Especially as we get older. Thank You for all you do to keep the art of sewing alive and well.

  • Shirley Clark
    December 11, 2014

    This is great! I’ve done a little of it all, but I haven’t sewn clothes with zippers for a very long time. I sew for my granddaughter, and I usually use buttons and buttonholes. I love seeing all of your tips and techniques because I learn something every time.

  • Judy Hodges
    December 11, 2014

    Love the invisible zipper directions. Zippers stress me out even though I have done them hundreds of times.

  • Carol M
    December 11, 2014

    Fabulous article on invisible zippers…..the illustrations are top notch…..this book is NOT just for beginners. Even long time seamstresses need to continue their educations and this book is just the thing to help all of us! Thanks Nancy and all her staff!

  • Cindy Schultz
    December 11, 2014

    Your directions to putting in an invisible zipper are great. You make it look so easy. I will have to give it a try. Wish me luck.

  • Starla
    December 11, 2014

    “Absolutely Easiest Way”??? That’s something I need!

  • Brenda Price
    December 11, 2014

    Help with prefect placement of buttonholes please!

  • Dorene Walrath
    December 11, 2014

    I am interested in knowing the easiest way to hem a circular skirt. Your instructions have always been my “go to” for unfamiliar tasks. Thank you!

  • Melanie Hill
    December 11, 2014

    These invisible zipper instructions are great. I had no idea what an invisible zipper foot was and I can see why it works so much better than a regular zipper foot. I will refer back to these helpful tips when it comes time to make dresses for my daughter since she will be attending a uniformed (dresses-only) school in September. Thanks a lot!

  • Casie Williams
    December 11, 2014

    If all the hints are as easy and straight forward as this one, I don’t know how I could live without this book! Love a hint on how to add lace to a flannel nightgown.

  • Lori M.
    December 11, 2014

    Love that zipper foot…But what I would like most to see is more How to Refashion a Sweatshirt…Love them….I happen to live in Montana, and I hate, and I mean I hate feeling like I am stuffed into a Coat…But have loved your Refashioned Sweatshirts……

  • Sandra Nettles
    December 11, 2014

    I would like tips for sewing on fine fabrics like chiffon that curl or ravel without using a product that makes the fabric too stiff. Thank you for your advice.

  • Lorij
    December 11, 2014

    Hi Nancy, I have found that when I have a zipper to sew in, I put the back pieces of the garment together then the zipper in and then finish constructing the garment. This makes it really easy because, all the pieces are flat and it’s just easy. Once the zipper is in then connect the shoulder seams and sew in the facing. Even when there is a side zipper in a dress, I do it this way. It may not be easy for others but it surely works for me (and they turn out even because I make sure to fit both sides together and baste or pin so they DON’T SHIFT. )
    YOU ALWAYS have great tips and, I’ve been watching you from the very start. You are such an inspiration to many. Blessings, Lorij

  • Lorij
    December 11, 2014

    Hi Nancy, I have found that when I have a zipper to sew in, I put the back pieces of the garment together then the zipper in and then finish constructing the garment. This makes it really easy because, all the pieces are flat and it’s just easy. Once the zipper is in then connect the shoulder seams and sew in the facing. Even when there is a side zipper in a dress, I do it this way. It may not be easy for others but it surely works for me (and they turn out even because I make sure to fit both sides together and baste or pin so they DON’T SHIFT. )
    YOU ALWAYS have great tips and, I’ve been watching you from the very start. You are such an inspiration to many.
    Thanks for the chance to win your book.
    Blessings, Lorij

  • Becky M
    December 11, 2014

    I love getting back to the basics. Thank you for writing this new book. I’ve been using the wrapped corner technique for years and love it. I do appreciate this update on adding the facing before attaching the invisible zipper. I will try this on my next project.

  • beth daniels
    December 11, 2014

    I would like to know how to input an invisible zippers. I have only done it one time and it came out okay but I need an easier method which you have shown us in this blog.

  • Diane S.
    December 11, 2014

    I would like to know which side of the zipper foot to use. When I sew on the left side, the stitching is too close to the zipper teeth. Is sewing to the right too far away?

  • Diane Illerbrun
    December 11, 2014

    Looks like a brilliant book of techniques that I’d love to win!

    I’d like to know how to put the lining into a vest in such a way that the last thing is hand sewing the Center back seam shut. I’ve seen it done but can’t recall the steps. It’s somehow sewn in, inside out, then pulled through the center back opening of the lining and all that is left is for that to be hand sewn shut.

    I think that lining, in general, is a little confuzzling to me hehehe.

  • Kathe Mayer
    December 11, 2014

    I love the helps you provide in your blog and would greatly enjoy the hints in your latest(?) book. A zipper in a knit shirt would be helpful, I have a pattern, but have previously only made T-shirts.

  • Theresa Brooks
    December 11, 2014

    Putting in elastic is my favorite!

  • janet trimble
    December 11, 2014

    My biggest problem is threads wrapping around the bobbin, is this a needle problem, I can’t seem to fix it? Thanks, I have enjoyed your shows since their inception. We are experiencing life together.

  • Lynn
    December 11, 2014

    Facings give me problems.

  • Brenda Martin
    December 11, 2014

    Nancy, thank you for all your tips. You make everything look so simple. I have found that when I follow your tips, it really is simple. Thanks again for all your tips.

  • Karyn Cowdrey
    December 11, 2014

    I’m still green at sewing so this book would help me in so MANY areas I NEED help!

  • Margaret Zupfer
    December 11, 2014

    School glue on tricky seams.

  • Enid
    December 11, 2014

    I do not like putting in zippers. I will try this method the next time.

  • Judy Kirkpatrick
    December 11, 2014

    I love how Nancy updates ways to sew, which is such an encouragement to sewists who want to use their time for best results. I love sewing for my grand-daughters, 8 and 11.

  • Michele Kolodij
    December 11, 2014

    Thanks for the chance to win your newest book. It sounds like a winner. My biggest sewing worry is buttonholes. If you mess them up in sewing or placement you can really ruin a garment. Perhaps you cover this topic in your book?

  • Carol Skilling
    December 11, 2014

    So neat and professional. That’s my goal. Thanks so much, Nancy. Just love your tips!

  • Olga pounders
    December 11, 2014

    Great idea! Can’t wait to try it!

  • Karen Burrows
    December 11, 2014

    how do you sew knits so they dont pucker at the seams.

  • Christina Gonzalez
    December 11, 2014

    I would love to know how to bind pipping around handbag.

  • Christina Gonzalez
    December 11, 2014

    I would love to learn how to add piping to handbags.

  • Phyllis G in Ok
    December 11, 2014

    Where may I buy a zipper foot like the one you are using?

  • Pat Hurdle
    December 11, 2014

    Hi Nancy
    Boy do I have a request or two.. One would be making the crotch of slacks fit good and the other would be not just threading the elastic through the fold down top of pants but putting it ON the top of pants like store bought.Just either one will do.

  • Pat
    December 11, 2014

    This invisible zipper technique is wonderful. Would also like to get more information about button holes. Thanks so much for the chance to win a copy of this new book. I need easy to keep my stress level low! My mother was a super seamstress and I never feel like I can do as good a job as she would have liked. Thanks for taking some of the pressure off!

  • Barbara Mitchell
    December 11, 2014

    I am anxious to try this method for invisible zippers. You make it look so simple.

  • Joyce
    December 12, 2014

    I would like to give the book to mt 13 yr old twin greatnieces who are just learning to sew. All of Nancy’s books are easy to follow and always have great illustrations.

  • TJ Hein
    December 12, 2014

    Thank you that was very useful just unclear on ironing the zipper part what do you set the iron at? Still need more help on grading.

  • Joanne Dillon
    December 12, 2014

    Love the invisible zipper technique….can’t wait to try it on my own. Thank you so much for all you do to make our sewing hassle free and easy peasy.!

  • Maria
    December 12, 2014

    Looks like a great book. Zippers are one of my nemesis. The other is button holes.

  • Lynn Petrich
    December 12, 2014

    Thanks for the invisible zipper info! I would like some info on sewing and hemming silky fabrics. They have a tendency to shift on me as I am working with them.

    Thank you for the opportunity to win a copy of your book!

  • Marty
    December 12, 2014

    How I appreciate your tips! I’m beginning to sew clothes, but I avoided patterns with zippers, and I hate raw-edge seams inside of unlined items. (I have an OLD zigzag machine, not a serger). My main issue so far with simple garments is hemming by hand: I must pull thread too tightly because my hems aren’t totally flat (there is a small ‘pucker’ by my stitching). Do you have a good-hem tip? Thanks sew much!

  • Susan McLachlan
    December 13, 2014

    I love this idea. Brilliant. Thank you, I have tried them before, reluctantly, will definitely give this a try, and I will find that “foot” for” my machine. Ironing a zipper, that’s new too. Thank yoiu

  • Anne Zurbuchen
    December 13, 2014

    I love the technique for hidden zippers. I have tried them in the past and it was a very cumbersome task.

  • Susan
    December 13, 2014

    A zip around a corner like a bag that I would like to know. What do you do when you reach a corner? Like a bag?

  • Karen
    December 13, 2014

    zippers (making them match at the neck/waist line) and the ends of waist bands are most difficult for me. also I would like to make a jeans type zipper…I have tried but most patterns are too confusing in that area. Thank you for all I have already learned from you….I wish your shows were on Maryland PBS TV…I have written to them to suggest it.

  • Vicki B.
    December 14, 2014

    Blind hem. Confuses me everytime.

  • Helen
    December 14, 2014

    Even though I have been sewing for a long time, it amazes me how Nancy can come up with such clear and easy new methods of sewing. This book will be helpful for so many sewers – old and new. Zippers have always been a real bug-a-boo with me! Will try this method.

  • Karen
    December 14, 2014

    I love invisible zippers, lap zippers not so much what a pain.

  • Anne
    December 16, 2014

    My first question concerns invisible zippers in the back of lined dresses with waist seams – often the zipper seems to struggle going over the waistline extra bulk. Any tips? Or is it best not to use invisible zips in this position? Also, what is the best way to make the insides look neat – I’ve tended to handstitch the lining to the part of the zip just outside the zipper run. Is there a better way? Also to do with zippers – I put an open-ended zip in a lined jacket, between font and facing but the whole thing wants to turn out. I didn’t manage to topstitch the edge as the teeth of the zip kept catching on the feeddog. If I managed would this solve the problem? Or maybe my zip is just too heavy. It’s 28″ long and metal. Thanks

  • Helen
    December 16, 2014

    I would like to know how to make sure a hem on a long silky dress is even all the way around, and then how to match up the hem on the second layer of the dress. I always seem to get them different lengths in different areas. Do these thin silky types of fabrics (like bridal chiffon) stretch after they have been hanging on the finished garment?

  • Rhonda
    December 20, 2014

    These zippers have always been tricky, especially the bottom seam. This technique makes it all seem (no pun intended) easy. Thank you.

  • Cathy G
    January 2, 2015

    How are invisible zippers put in a pillow that has pipping in the seam?

  • Jan Sjodin
    January 10, 2015

    I have the special zipper foot for the invisible zipper installation and the zipper. I just haven’t had the courage to sit down and tackle the job. With your instructions I’m ready to give it a try. Thanks.

  • Marsha Chibitty
    July 28, 2015

    My ultimate favorite tip is sewing a snap for closure at the neck of a dress where one side of the snap pivots to the other side. Hook and eyes can pull braided hair out.

  • Margaret George
    July 28, 2015

    There is an error in the instructions at this site, but the photos are correct. The instructions say “Stitch the shoulder seams and underarm seams of the top or dress.” The underarm seams are NOT sewn in the photos and leaving them open makes inserting the zipper much easier.

  • Virginia P
    September 17, 2015

    Types of interfacing and when, where to use them. I loved the instruction on the invisible zipper. It’s been years since I put a zipper in and I needed the review. I always find you have the best way to do things, keep up the good work.

  • Joyce
    September 18, 2015

    Love your invisible zipper tutorial. Can’t wait to try it. My zippers NEVER look good. Thank you!

  • Marit Hoff
    September 18, 2015

    I love the elastic technique. Can’t wait to try it, but 4 quilts need to be completed first! Thanks for all your wonderful education!

  • Patti
    September 26, 2015

    I would like to learn some better hemming techniques.

  • Jill R
    October 10, 2015

    I really like the invisible zipper technique with the facing already attached. I’m going to try this on a dress I am working on now.
    One issue I have is that I like using bias tape instead of facings for neck openings; however, sometimes the neck doesn’t lay flat. I stay stitch the neck opening and make sure I am not stretching the fabric. What am I dong wrong?

  • Martha C. Patterson
    October 22, 2015

    Thank you for all the details. I can sew in any zipper, but I was having some trouble getting a smooth, professional look with zippers in pillows. Solved!

  • P. Stovall
    December 31, 2015

    Thank you for the tutorial! I attempted to insert an invisible zipper that didn’t actually turn out to be invisible!

  • Jean Jankovich
    October 29, 2016

    Nancy, you are a wealth of sewing information! Thanks for sharing your tips!

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