Solving the Pattern Fitting Puzzle

Solving the Pattern Fitting Puzzle TV Show by Nancy Zieman

Solving the Pattern Fitting Puzzle

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Solving the Pattern Fitting Puzzle TV Show by Nancy Zieman

Learn each of my pattern fitting techniques for your next garment sewing project. During the next two Sewing With Nancy episodes featuring the new show, Solving the Pattern Fitting Puzzle, I’d like to share with you my favorite pivot and slide methods that are easily mastered, without cutting the original pattern pieces apart!

Solving the Pattern Fitting Puzzle Sewing With Nancy PBS Show hosted by Nancy ZiemanFitting sewing patterns can be approached as if you’re putting together a puzzle. In Solving the Pattern Fitting Puzzle, Part One, I cover the fitting basics—bust, waist, and hip adjustments.

Nancy Zieman's Right Size Measurement Pattern Fitting ChartLearn a new approach to choosing the right pattern size with my Right Size Measurement Fitting Chart.

Nancy Zieman's Right Size Measurement Pattern Fitting Chart

See how to easily measure and choose a basic pattern size.

How to Fit a Sewing Pattern with Nancy Zieman's Solving the Pattern Fitting Puzzle

Then, learn how to change the pattern with simplified pivot and slide techniques.

Free Mini Pattern Pieces from Solving the Pattern Fitting Puzzle by Nancy Zieman

You’ll find all my pattern fitting techniques in my book, Confident Sewing Collection.

Confident Sewing Collection by Sewing With Nancy ZiemanYou can also practice these skills using mini-pattern pieces that you can download for free.

Princess Seams Mini Pattern Pieces by Nancy Zieman

Watch Solving the Pattern Fitting Puzzle on Sewing With Nancy online. 

For a chance to win a Solving the Pattern Fitting Puzzle DVD from Nancy’s Notions, please leave a comment below sharing your pattern fitting puzzler.

Solving the Pattern Fitting Puzzle DVD by Nancy Zieman of TV's Sewing With Nancy PBS Show

Nancy Zieman's Giveaway Winner

The randomly selected winner of a copy of the book, Sew Gifts–Make Memories by Mary Mulariis Becky.

Her comment was, “I Love the phone holder. My husband has requested one, but with a built-in belt loop. So, I made a rough draft of the phone holder, and he has already given it away to another man he works with who liked the idea. I am working on one that is totally functional and sturdy, for use on a construction site.”

Sew Gifts Make Memories Book by Mary Mulari

Bye for now,

Nancy Zieman The Blog

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91 Comments

  • Louise. Hanifan
    May 25, 2017

    This is surely the missing puzzle piece I needed. Self taught, I appreciated all this info. Thanks Nancy. Have retired now will have more time to sew. Love your shows.

  • Mary Anne
    May 25, 2017

    I am like a short Christmas tree

  • Mary Anne
    May 25, 2017

    I am like a short Christmas tree

  • Mary Anne
    May 25, 2017

    Apologies, only part of message came through…and twice!!!
    I am like a short Christmas Tree….very narrow at top and just keep getting wider as you go down!
    I hope message goes properly this time!

  • Claudia
    May 25, 2017

    Although i took several years of se s ing and drafting, i live your simp,e puzzle fitting method of rotate to fit in your part one tutorial. Thank you Nancy.

  • Robin
    May 25, 2017

    Pattern fitting is always hit or miss for me, but the one thing I’m sure of is that Nancy has an infallible and easy to follow solution.

  • Sandra L
    May 25, 2017

    My top is a different size from my pants size and both still need adjustments.

  • Patricia Morrill
    May 25, 2017

    My pattern fitting puzzler is my sway back and big butt, at least that was the message I received from patterns.

  • Virginia Smith
    May 25, 2017

    My always problem that I can solve easily is I am low busted and that is hard for princes lines and in addition my daughter is high busted so that must be adjusted also.

  • Virginia Smith
    May 25, 2017

    My always problem that I cannot solve easily is I am low busted and that is hard for princes lines and in addition my daughter is high busted so that must be adjusted also for princes.

  • Wendy
    May 25, 2017

    Your episode is coming at just the right time! I am beginning to sew some of my own clothes after being a quilter for many years. Shoulder pattern fitting was a challenge for me years ago when I did attempt garment sewing. Can’t wait to watch! This book would be a big help to me, too.

  • Debra
    May 25, 2017

    My pattern puzzler is shoulder width, narrower in the front and wider in the back. I started making my own garments many years ago when information on fitting was not readily available until Nancy published her booklets, which I purchased through mail order. Over the nearly 50 years since I started making my own clothes, I became sidetracked with quilting and need a refresher course in Nancy’s tried and true techniques to jump start my garment sewing again. Thank you for all you share.

  • Barb
    May 25, 2017

    I have been sewing for 40 years but I have a terrible terrible time fitting myself for garments. I am short in stature, short wasted, wide in the back, narrow in the front; wide waist, narrow hips, narrow legs, and narrow shoulder so I have a very difficult time with pattern fitting. I am really really looking forward to solving this problem : I am sure that you have the solution.

  • Sunni
    May 25, 2017

    Fitting patterns for my figure has always been a challenge. There are times I had to give up on a pattern – actually to many times. There are many puzzle pieces required to fit me and they all didn’t match up. Looking forward to assistance from the greatest sewing teacher there is! Thank you Nancy Zieman.

  • Lorraine Scott
    May 25, 2017

    Nancy’s book Fitting Finesse is my go-to for pattern alterations. One issue that stymies me is I always have to shorten the shoulder seam 1/4″ and add a little to the bust and the back width. I find this tricky to do on garments that have princess seams that end in the armscye. I’m never sure if I’m doing it correctly. I’m also never sure if I need to add to the bust at all if I add to the back width. Thanks!

  • Judy
    May 25, 2017

    It’s been a long time and many size changes – both up and down – since I’ve done any garment sewing for myself, so this book will be a great help for me to get back on track. Thank you, Nancy, for the opportunity to pick one up free!

  • Pam
    May 25, 2017

    I have been sewing for my granddaughters, one has hit her growth spurt! While she is getting taller she is still skinny and it’s been a challenge for me to make her something that fits well. This is what I need!

  • Sandy Woerner
    May 25, 2017

    Hi Nancy, Thank you so much for this information. I don’t want to give my age away, but I too remember the one size patterns. I have tried altering my patterns (with body changes due to age) without success to the point of “giving up”. I was hesitant to try “another” method, but since I have been a fan of yours for a while I gave it a try and—–IT WORKS!!!

  • Cherie M
    May 25, 2017

    I have 7 granddaughters that I sew for. All are very thin so getting the bust to fit correctly is always a challenge. Thanks for the lesson.

  • Kerry M.
    May 25, 2017

    My fit challenge is my hips/thighs. Pants are difficult, and if making a top or dress, I have to start with one size for the top and go to a larger size for the lower part.

  • Joyce D'Agostino
    May 25, 2017

    Nancy has been my go-to resource for all sewing and fitting tips and techniques. I am happy to know she has a new book, I have a library of her books and use them often. I used her fitting book to sew my daughter’s wedding gown and was so happy to have that information! Would love to win this new book and DVD!

  • Brenda Davis
    May 25, 2017

    I have multiple pattern fitting puzzles. First, my bust and waist measurements are pretty much the same with my hips 6 inches larger. Next, I have a long torso, but short legs (I’m 5′ 1-1/2″). I have narrow shoulders, but in addition, my left shoulder is more narrow by 1/2″ and my left arm and left leg are about 1/2″ shorter than the right side. I desperately need help making all of these adjustments. If I purchase any clothing, I have to deconstruct and alter.

  • Linda E in AZ
    May 25, 2017

    Problem is small bust and top and large bottom and thighs, like so many of my “senior” friends. Help would be appreciated. Sounds like a very helpful CD.
    Thanks!

  • Traci
    May 25, 2017

    I get frustrated that patterns say they will fit a certain size and then they do not come out right. Thanks Nancy. You truly are an inspiration!

  • Marty
    May 25, 2017

    I’m “hippie” (not the flower-power type but the pear shape), so my small top size doesn’t fit my large bottom size in most multi-size patterns today; I don’t want to buy 2 dress patterns just to attempt to meld them into “my” size. So I rarely wear dresses (although I love doing so) and resort to separates.

  • Joyce W.
    May 25, 2017

    Because I am three different sizes and have a difficult time getting today’s patterns to fit, I don’t make my clothes anymore. Your method for changing the pattern sizes looks easy and workable. I think I will try it. Thank you for the opportunity to win this DVD. You are my go-to person whenever I have a sewing problem. Thank you for all you do.

  • beth d.
    May 25, 2017

    I have used all your confidence books earlier. They are good resource books. I would like to win the DVD because I do have fitting issues and I need help with it.

  • Vee Harris
    May 25, 2017

    I have always wanted to know how to properly adjust a pattern. I think I always made it so much harder than I needed to. I am so excited to try your method to see if I can get a better fir. Thank you for the opportunity to win the DVD.

  • Pamela McCandless
    May 25, 2017

    Nancy and Staff, thank you so much for all your hard work getting all these shows, ideas, and patterns out to us!
    I finally got to come get these mini patterns to practice my garment alteration and fit techniques. They are so cute! I’ve already watched the show twice and have learned so much.
    Have a wonderful holiday weekend.

  • sonja dew
    May 25, 2017

    Fitting problems are the main reason I do very little sewing for myself anymore . I enjoy sewing for children mainly because there are so few fitting issues involved. I really would love to be able to sew fitted attractive garments once again for myself and family and friends. I am sure this new fitting series will be a great help. I have always found the notions, tips and information in your publications to be very useful. Thank You

  • Łinda Rupe
    May 25, 2017

    As a longtime fan, I love all of your amazing tips and tricks, but pivot and slide plus 14″= size 14 have been then most quoted and repeated by me. In encouraging others that they can make clothes that fit I always refer to your method and books first. I have read, studied and attended workshops for other (much more complex and difficult) methods but none are more effective or easier to use. Thank you!

  • Carolyn Sherry
    May 25, 2017

    I have not sewn garments for several years, because fitting a pattern to my measurements had become so difficult. I am inspired to try again. Your method of fitting the pattern makes it seem so do able. Thank you so much

  • Clovis
    May 25, 2017

    I haven’t sewed a garment for me in a long time. When I did, sometimes I would have to take in a lot or my sleeves would be to tight and I would have to let it out. With this book, it could start me back to sewing my own items. Just finished watching the show. Thanks for the chance to win.

  • cheryl kozak
    May 25, 2017

    I’m a resent double mastectomy and find hard to fit my patterns now. I can adjust my bust to anything depending on what size I put in my bra. I liked the 1st show on patterns with using the upper chest. I now know I should be using a size 10 and not a size 14. Answered alot of questions when I sew my scrub tops for work as a nurse why they gapped so much. I would love to see if you had any other pattern fitting books. Tks cheryl

  • Crystal
    May 25, 2017

    Nancy,
    I am very excited about this post and very excited to watch these episodes! This is exactly what I am looking for. I have never quite been able to figure out fitting patterns and have always wanted to learn! Thanks for the opportunity and for sharing your knowledge!
    Crystal

  • Emma Carpenter
    May 25, 2017

    I always loved sewing until petite patterns were discontinued. And the petitable patterns are a nightmare. I’m 5 1 1/2; have to shorten all pattern pieces. This has never worked for me. I just finished watching your show (Part 1) on TV. Your method seems nice and easy. Will give it a try. Thanks Nancy.

  • Ann C
    May 25, 2017

    Nancy, You & I were born the same year, so I too, remember ‘one size’ patterns. My fitting problems are numerous since I am ‘plus size’ ( I HATE that term-can somebody change it please?). I have watched this show twice now and I would so love to win the DVD so I can have it as a guide while I actually attempt to use your techniques. They seem so easy and I really need help in every area (shoulders, bust, waist, hips). I have been a fan for many, many years; as a matter of fact Nancy, you are the reason I began sewing for myself in the first place! I learned so much from your shows. I still have all the VHS tapes I purchased from your catalog (which back then was more like a small community newspaper)! Thanks for this wonderful opportunity.

  • josie m
    May 25, 2017

    I REALLY think this is going to work for me. I made a t-shirt from a commercial pattern to fit my bust and the sleeves were falling off my shoulders. Will definitely give this a try.

  • Pat
    May 25, 2017

    I absolutely love the pivot and slide technique. It is so smart and also easy to understand. I have always had a problem fitting skirts or pants. I think this method and will be a great help to me. Thanks for the chance to win.

  • Carla Taylor
    May 25, 2017

    Oh, Nancy. Where to begin with my fitting issues? It would be simpler to say if straight potato sacks were in fashion, I would be set. I really don’t understand how to make anything fit attractively.I cannot evaluate what is wrong. Nothing ever looks quite right.

  • Patty
    May 25, 2017

    I always seem to have a lot of fabric under my behing/top of leg when I make pants. I need a fix for this!

  • Amy
    May 25, 2017

    A perfect size 8 right out of the single size package. But that was 40 years ago, and now – sigh. Shoulders and bust and hips, oh my. I had much confusion with “Fitting Finesse”, combining several alterations, so I’m hoping that the newer book will resolve those problems.

  • Susan Spiers
    May 25, 2017

    I have always had a problem with my waist fitting-turns out I am long-waisted, by adding an inch-problem solved! Thank you, Susan

  • Alice
    May 25, 2017

    I have problems knowing how much allowance should be given on measurements when sewing for someone and they are not able to try the garment on for fitting.

  • BevM
    May 25, 2017

    I am currently tailoring a jacket for myself. I have thickened as I age, and tend to over-estimate how much to enlarge my old patterns. Nancy’s techniques would be helpful.

  • Arlene Aughey
    May 25, 2017

    My personal problem has always been that I have a pronounced swayback – with a “stick-out” derriere – but really no hips to speak of. All of the pattern alterations that I have seen for “large derriere” simply do not work for this. It’s as if they are assuming you are “large” all around the body, which is simply not the case. Help!

  • Patricia Duke
    May 25, 2017

    I have ruined many dress and top garments before I learned to adjust a (smaller size) pattern for D-cup bust. I had been purchasing a too-large pattern based on my full-bust measurement, instead of the above-bust measurement. Result? Clothes hung at the shoulders.

  • Kathryn E
    May 25, 2017

    I started sewing when I was 19. I had a great figure but table cloth dresses and tunics were in style and easy to sew. No fitting problems. Now I am 66 and have a large waist as compared to my hips. My butt is flat but my stomach is not. I have problems finding ready to wear that fits. I would love to start sewing my own garments again and getting them to fit.

  • Jan N.
    May 25, 2017

    My fitting issue is doing a full bust adjustment.

  • Liz
    May 25, 2017

    I always enjoyed sewing clothing for my children more than for myself because fit wasn’t that big of an issue. I often think about giving it a try again and lessons from Nancy would be great inspiration.

  • Florence Dupuis
    May 25, 2017

    I have problems fitting the length of the bodice. I am long waisted in the front and normal in the back. I have seen the shows for pattern adjusting but I really need the book.

  • Judy Hart
    May 25, 2017

    I have recently lost a lot of weight and almost all of my patterns need to be changed to fit me now. I think this is the most logical method I have ever seen in my 76 years and I could really use the DVD to adjust my patterns as I need to make a new wardrobe. Thank you, Nancy. You are always on the “cutting edge.”

  • Sally
    May 25, 2017

    My fitting challenge is that my top half is two sizes larger than my bottom half. Additionally I am short, so I wear petite pants. But because of my extra-large bust I can not wear petite tops even in plus sizes.

  • Carol
    May 25, 2017

    My issues have always been crotch length, short hip point, when fitting pants. Also, smaller top size, according to your “right” size. This book and DVD would be most helpful. Hoping to get back into making instead of fixing. It is hard to find nice materials anymore. Thanks for your help. Carol

  • L Watson
    May 25, 2017

    I have made pajama pants for my husband, and ended up giving them to my very small daughter. I get very frustrated when cutting patterns out and they don’t turn out as the package says they should(perhaps I can’t figure it properly). To understand what size to actually pick to get the desired results isn’t always easy. I would have to say, I need most pants to be lengthened for myself, and one of my daughters. Also, I have problems because I have a small waist, but also am very curvy….smaller waist and larger behind. To make the transition between waist and behind, often leaves me with a gaping back-waistband area.

  • Frances
    May 25, 2017

    Severe rheum arthritis, some tag-along illnesses, and 70+ yrs of living have adjusted my expectations. When sewing clothes became too difficult, I switched to quilt making. Now, I want to make simple tops & bottoms but I’m 4 different sizes! I’ve watched your TV show since forever and you have always demonstrated practical and uncomplicated methods. I would love to win the book and DVD since my body needs clothing.

  • Diane
    May 25, 2017

    I used to sew many years ago when I was a standard pattern size. I’d love to try it again, but have no idea how to alter a pattern. Somehow my body has shifted in the last forty years! Looking forward to your programs.

  • Carol
    May 25, 2017

    Momma sewed every thread that was on my body until the pre-teen years. I don’t remember any fit issues with me and my skinny little body but I can remember her struggle to fit herself. Oh how I wish that I could make her a dress using all of the information available now to fit her. What am I saying? I would give anything to speak to momma and thank her for those little dresses she made for me. She taught me to sew and there are few items that I haven’t tried to make. Thank you for all of the help you have been to so many of us.

  • Joan J.
    May 25, 2017

    I’ve always been a “pear-shape B” body type. (bottom heavy!) Now that I’m older, I’m thicker everywhere (kind of like zucchini-shape!!!)
    I need fitting help all over.

  • Carol Abbott
    May 25, 2017

    I am only 5 feet tall so I make a lot of my clothes. Fit is so important because I am short but not skinny. You make altering the pattern seem so easy. I cant’ wait to try it. Now I should be able to use the same pattern for me, my niece (who is more busty), and my sister (who is wider all over but also taller). Love you shows. I have several of your books but this video makes so much easier to follow.

  • Janine
    May 25, 2017

    I’m short and very overweight. Absolutely nothing fits off the rack and I’ve been able to do better sewing my own. Cannot wait to try all your methods out. Who knows? Maybe I’ll FINALLY wind up with something that actually fits.

  • Noreen
    May 25, 2017

    My main pattern fitting issue is that I need to add at least 3 inches to the bodice to get the waistline to fit in the proper place. I also need to enlarge the bust.

  • Sandra
    May 25, 2017

    I have a small bust, shoulders and neckline, but grade out to very large tummy and hip. I find it so difficult to fit the neckline so it doesn’t gap open yet grade out to the hips.

  • Gail
    May 25, 2017

    Pattern fitting has always been a challenge for me. After watching your video and my grand daughter’s interest in sewing, I have found the need to return to sewing. Thanks Nancy

  • jomimms
    May 25, 2017

    What a coincidence! My (i.e. your) book – Pattern Fitting with Confidence – just came in the mail yesterday! I was viewing an Anita by Design video several days ago, and she was applauding your book highly. I have the earlier book you authored on pattern fitting which introduced to me the pivot method of pattern adjustment. Now with both resources, I hope to fit me as well as the garments I sew for others fit them! Thank you for one again sharing your tried and true experience, Nancy. It has been a valuable and skill-building resource these many years. -jo

  • Dena M
    May 26, 2017

    As I age, my pattern fitting problems multiply. I have to adjust for narrow shoulders, rounded back, large abdomen, and long waist. My favorite dress pattern has princess seams and I’ve never been able to adjust them properly. I’m going to try your techniques and hopefully get something to fit properly for once. I would love to win the DVD, so I can watch the program with my 4 daughters and help them with their fitting issues.

  • Pam Wall
    May 26, 2017

    When you first introduced these concepts years ago, I adopted them and have rarely been disappointed. I am delighted that you have re-introduced another generation of garment sewers to these ideas. There is so much to learn and you have always kept me moving forward!

  • Brenda
    May 26, 2017

    My puzzle is a large bust and small shoulders. I will try your method on my next farmer.

  • Brenda
    May 26, 2017

    On my next garmet. My phone changed my word. Sorry.

  • Tina
    May 26, 2017

    Great info. Thanks. I am short and small busted. Necklines and sleeves always are problems for me.

  • Jane
    May 26, 2017

    Never find pants that fit. Long waist, bit of tummy, narrow hips= impossible! Hope to get this so I can start making clothes to fit me instead of always for others.

  • kim
    May 26, 2017

    I have a hard time fitting my upper body I have a short torso.

  • Rebecca
    May 26, 2017

    I have been sewing since I was a little girl, but my form is not as “perfect” a size as it once was, so the patterns just don’t seem to fit as well. This sounds like just what I need to modify the patterns to fit. Just wish modifying my form was that easy.

  • Valerie
    May 26, 2017

    Love the concept of starting with the “right size” measurement. Am hoping this will solve many of the issues I have, but could use help getting the enlarged sleeves to fit in without making a mess of the bodice.

  • Lorraine Moretti
    May 27, 2017

    I am excited to try your fitting techniques! At last, perfectly fitting home made garments! Will also look forward to teaching my granddaughter.

  • Olga
    May 27, 2017

    Thoroughly enjoy your videos. Would love to see an easy way to adjust back bodice pattern for dowager,s hump.

  • Christine Horne
    May 28, 2017

    Solving the pattern fitting puzzle would be a great help as I have an odd shape and have difficulty finding clothes to fit. I have decided I want to try and make myself some tops and eventually some pants.

  • Laura geiser
    May 28, 2017

    I have more or less given up sewing for me. Too many changes. Illvecsewing and now mostly sew for my grand daughter,s 18 inch doll.
    This DVD sounds like just what I need.
    Keep up the good work!

  • Suzan
    May 28, 2017

    I am just getting back in garment sewing after infrequently sewing any for many years. Oh, how the body has changed since then. Now I am learning to make many pattern adjustments and there are different techniques. I would love to have such a helpful DVD.

  • Beverly
    May 28, 2017

    Would love to win this book! One size on the top and another on the bottom has meant struggling to fit patterns for years. This could be the answer.

  • Jane Jarvis
    May 29, 2017

    With being small having to make clothes to fit kind of anyway. Having sloped shoulders, rounded back and few other issues you covered. Your way of pattern changes makes it seem so easy. Can’t wait to try your way.

  • Brenda Price
    May 29, 2017

    Almost every time I am to start a garment sewing project I go into a panic about where I should start my pattern adjustments. I need help!

  • Sherie Christiansen
    May 30, 2017

    Fitting Issues, oh my! I have had fitting issues since I was a teenager (and I’m a LOT older than that now). For a long time now I have been one size on top and a different size on the bottom. I have recently lost a bunch of weight and am now trying to remodel some of my clothing (a new wardrobe would be nice but is hard on the pocket book). I’m still at least 2 different sizes and could use this information to help my wardrobe.

  • Donna K
    May 31, 2017

    My relatives who lived through the depression era knew so many ways to make hand-me-downs fit and look like new clothes. Even though I was always amazed, I didn’t look far enough into the future to know I would benefit from that knowledge. I am SO THRILLED to see Nancy share those tricks and make it look so easy!!! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!

  • Alyssa Sorenson
    May 31, 2017

    My pattern fitting puzzle starts with my back waist length being only 14″ & then continues with my small bust (A) size. Sometimes it just doesn’t feel like the effort to get the fit “perfect” is worth the pattern.

  • Martha Hood
    May 31, 2017

    I have a problem getting slacks to fit right= top heavy- big on bottom and short waisted, thanks for all the ideas and suggestions.

  • Pam
    June 1, 2017

    I am full figured and my breast’s are large and I have a problem with fitting. Would appreciate some advice.

  • Michelle
    June 1, 2017

    My fit puzzler is my belly is bigger than my hips. I have a hard time getting pants to fit properly without being too big in the legs and hips.

  • Kathleen
    June 6, 2017

    I’ve watched your show for years, probably since you were first on PBS. Have many of your books, DVDs, and products. Your staff have always responded so well to help me with my questions and projects, especially when I was trying to adjust a halter top dress for my daughter some years ago. I’ve lost quite a bit of weight and the Solving the Puzzle Book looks like just what I need to resume sewing for me. Many thanks. Mwah!

  • Janet Weirauch
    June 7, 2017

    I have lost 50 lbs. and hope this information will help me to tailor my old clothes so I can get some use it of the. I am still losing so I can’t afford to keep buying new. Thanks for all your information for some many years. I truly appreciate you. God bless.

  • Cathy
    July 12, 2017

    I have always been top heavy so since I was 12 I have been making my own clothes. I have always always gone 2 sizes larger than my size so I can bit my bust line somewhat ok. I thank you so much for the “Solving the Pattern Fitting Puzzle.”

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