Six Easy Knit Sewing Tips

Six knit garment sewing tips by tv host Nancy Zieman

Six Easy Knit Sewing Tips

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I really enjoy sewing with knits. Yet, if you don’t follow the simple less is best principle, you may “over sew” your project! What’s “over sew?” My answer —”Working too hard, adding too many details.” Here are a few tips that might help you with your next (or first) knit sewing project.

Six knit garment sewing tips by tv host Nancy ZiemanSix Easy Knit Sewing Tips

Tip #1:  Choose an easy pattern

McCalls 7331 Nancy Zieman

McCalls 7331 by Nancy Zieman

  • Look for styles and shapes with few seams, letting the drape of the fabric be the star.

Tip #2: Sew simple

McCalls 7152 by Nancy Zieman

McCalls 7152 by Nancy Zieman

  •  If you’re a serger owner, here’s where a 4-thread overlock stitch should be used. It’s fast, easy, and the seam will stretch.

IMG 01264

  • When using a conventional sewing machine, try a “wobble” stitch. First coined by Betty Cotton of quilting fame, this narrow zigzag (.5 width and 2.5 length) has an ever-so-slight zigzag, providing a little stretch in the seam while looking like a straight seam from the right side.

IMG 01251

Tip #3: Sew in some stretch

McCalls 7353 by Nancy Zieman

McCalls 7353 by Nancy Zieman

  • Stabilize the shoulders of knit fabrics with clear elastic. Serge or wobble stitch over the seam, stitching over the elastic. The shoulder seams will stretch when needed without stretching out of shape. This tip works on shoulder seams of any length.

PC010172

Tip #4: Serge off the hem

McCalls 6607 by Nancy Zieman

McCalls 6607 by Nancy Zieman

  • If you’re looking at a knit pattern with a shaped hem, make it easy on yourself; let your serger do the work. Use a 3-thread overlock stitch and serge along the hemline.
  • To keep the knit from stretching, serge over strips of wash away stabilizer. Place the strips on the wrong side of the fabric and then serge. After serging, tear away the excess stabilizer. Presto, no stretching. (The stabilizer is what you see on the wrong side of the fabric in the photos below.)
  • Serge each edge individually, don’t try to turn the corner. Tuck the thread tail to the wrong side and hand stitch the thread tail to the seam. Clip off the excess thread. It’s fast!

PB300150
PB300151
 
IMG 0136

Tip #5: Double fold the edges

McCalls 7252 by Nancy Zieman

McCalls 7252 by Nancy Zieman

  • With knits, very few patterns have facings to finish the edges, one layer of fabric is all that’s used. Consider finishing the edges with a double fold.
  • Fold and press under a 1/4″ and straight or wobble stitch. Stitch one edge (center front seam in this example) and then the hemline. Before stitching the hemline’s double fold, place a scrap of fabric under the presser foot, stitch from the scrap (or anchor cloth as I like to call it) to the fabric. This anchor allows you to easily sew the thick area at the corner with even stitches.

  • Clip off the anchor cloth when finished.

Tip #6: Hem with fusible tape

McCalls 7290 by Nancy Zieman

McCalls 7290 by Nancy Zieman

  •  Press Pellon Lite EZ-Steam IIa 1/2″ wide paper-backed fusible webalong the wrong side of the hem’s outer edges.

How to Hem Knit Garments by Nancy Zieman

How to Hem Knit Garments by Nancy Zieman.

How to Hem Knit Garments by Nancy Zieman.

  • Remove the paper backing; then press the hem to the wrong side–at the edge of the tape. The fusible webbing provides extra stability and shaping.

How to Hem Knit Garments by Nancy Zieman.

  • Straight stitch or wobble stitch the hem. How to Hem Knit Garments by Nancy Zieman.

Give these tips a try!

Watch Sew Knits with Confidence (Part One and Part Two) on Sewing With Nancy online.

To watch Sewing With Nancy on your iPad, iPod Touch, or iPhone, download the app.
Six tips for sewing knit garments by Nancy Zieman
For a chance to win a copy of one of my knit patterns from McCall’s, please leave a comment below and let me know your favorite knit design from the above featured designs. The McCall Pattern Company will give away one pattern to one US resident in the 48 contiguous states.
Bye for now,
Nancy Zieman The Blog

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96 Comments

  • Rene Bolton
    May 7, 2016

    I love McCall’s 7290. I have never sewn with knit fabric. Looks easy after reading these tips. Going to try it! Thank you!

  • E. Ann
    May 7, 2016

    Of corse I’ve sewn with knits over the years but have wanted to become more knowledgeable on the best way to sew with knits for a more presentable result. Thanks so much for these hints. So helpful!! I will definitely try done of these and look for more!

  • Glenda Marsh
    May 7, 2016

    Great inspiring tips. & I have a serger I love love!

  • Kristin Farwig
    May 7, 2016

    My favorite is # 7252.

  • Mary Louise Jensen
    May 7, 2016

    I appreciate the hints on using the serger and the types OS stitches to use. Thanks so much.

  • MonicaAD
    May 7, 2016

    McCalls 6607 … FIESTA 🙂

  • Karen B
    May 7, 2016

    I have a serger, and it sure makes life easier. My favorite pattern is the striped top. It looks slimming and great. Thanks so much.

  • Kris Held
    May 7, 2016

    I love all of them. But I like 7525. I plan on making everyone of these patterns. I am glad for the tips because I like when I watch your show nothing you make looks homemade. Everything looks so professional. That is what I want in my wardrobe. Thank you for all you do Namcy. I watch you each and every Saturday morning here in New Orleans. Kris Hekf

  • Pam Hopp
    May 7, 2016

    I am most interested in 7290 and think it would be useful year round. I started sewing knits in the 70s (Stretch & Sew days) and love your updates.

  • Donna Driver
    May 7, 2016

    I will try the fusible on the hem trick!

  • Barbara
    May 7, 2016

    7331–simple, versatile style and comfortable to wear. Although I would probably widen the legs just a tad.

  • Marsha Dimond
    May 7, 2016

    Hi Nancy. My favorite pattern is the wardrobe, M7331. There are so many options with a pattern like this. I have the dress pattern. Thanks for all you do for sewists everywhere.

  • Cynthia Tobolt
    May 7, 2016

    7331 is very nice with great options.

  • Rachel D
    May 7, 2016

    I like 7353 you get a top to wear with a skirt, slacks or jeans & a dress! Can’t ask for any more versatile than that.

  • Karen J
    May 7, 2016

    I like the way 6607 drapes and hides the extra inches around the waist. I have just started sewing with knits and it is not hard at all. Don’t know why I waited so long.

  • Jean Palionis
    May 7, 2016

    “Stretch and Sew” was popular in the ’70’s! Thank you fo bringing back som patterns made to use with k it fabics. I am interested in patern 7331. I need a very basic every-day style! Thank you so much.

  • Dorothy Carbone
    May 7, 2016

    THE FUSIBLE HEM TAPE WILL MAKE A NEATER HEM
    PATTERN 7331 LOVE THIS ONLY I NEED SLEEVES.
    DO YOU HAVE SUGGESTIONS. i will buy 7152

  • Laurie
    May 7, 2016

    I love the simplicity of this dress, 7152 is my choice. I love sewing with knits and the comfort of this fabric can’t be beat!
    Thanks Nancy!

  • Susan Leeser
    May 7, 2016

    How do I contact Nancy to get permission to use her blog about sewing with knits for a class I’m teaching at Southwest Tech, August 1 – 4 ? I only need 10 copies. I would like to print out her blog & share it with my students.

  • sharon P
    May 7, 2016

    They are all wonderful patterns and I would love to have the lot, but if I must pick one it would have to be 7331. So many options in one envelope.

  • Tammy Kazmierczak
    May 7, 2016

    I absolutely adore 7331 with its 3/4 length sleeves. What a versital pattern, especially for travel!

  • Peggy Carey
    May 7, 2016

    I’m always scared to try sewing with knits. I’ve just bought a really cute (and easy) beach-y pattern for an upcoming vacation, but have (excuse the pun) hemmed and hawed about diving in. After reading these tips, I feel a lot more like the little engine who could-I think I can, I know I can. Thank you very much for giving my confidence a boost!!

  • Sandra P
    May 7, 2016

    I use to sew garments then work got in the way! Recently have started back with quilting and I’m getting the itch to do garments again. Thanks for all your helpful hints with all different projects!

  • roberta godfrey-darr
    May 7, 2016

    All great information when it comes to sewing knits

  • Martha Morgan
    May 7, 2016

    I love them all – but I suppose if I had to choose, 7331 would be the one. Thanks for the giveaway.

  • PamB
    May 7, 2016

    I like all of them, but especially the jacket, 7290. Thanks for the tips!

  • Pat
    May 7, 2016

    My favorite pattern of the ones shown is the 7353 empire waist dress or top. This design is so flattering. Thanks for a chance to win.

  • Susan Nicol
    May 7, 2016

    I like the variations of pattern 7353. I would like to freshen up my wardrobe with more tops for work, and I think this pattern would work for me.

  • MARY
    May 7, 2016

    I would like to sew up M# 7553 because it would be flattering to my “older” figure

  • Jennifer Ingley
    May 7, 2016

    Thank you for this! I’ve incorporated some of these tips before, but not all. Excited to put some new ones into use, especially the one about serging the hem, which I’ve done before but usually decide against. Any one of these patterns would be fine with me.

  • Kathy Casey
    May 7, 2016

    How helpful to have all these tips in one simple article! Thanks for your thoughtful steps in putting this article together. I plan to sew a knit top this weekend, and I will use these ideas/instructions in my project. You’re the best, Nancy!

  • Ruth L
    May 7, 2016

    Nancy,
    I have always been intimidated when it comes to knits. I don’t own a serger, but do have a machine that sews a stretch stitch, so I guess it’s time to give it a try! It’s hard to pick one, but I’d choose 7353 – love the empire waist and the cowl!

  • Jeannette Montano
    May 7, 2016

    Thank you for the tips. I would like to try 7152. The dress would work for AZ spring weather, simple and cool.

  • Jeannette M
    May 7, 2016

    7152 pattern is the one I would like to try. It looks nice and cool for the warm weather.

  • Erin Dumont
    May 7, 2016

    7353 would be my pick. Isn’t it flattering? Sewing only two knit projects made me aware that there are many things to learn about sewing with knits. Mrs. Zieman always makes learning a new technique easier.

  • Ronda Lynn Halvorsen-Ferns
    May 7, 2016

    Great refresher on sewing knits, I bought the videos last year because I kept going back to that episode so often…. I SEW love patter 7331 what a great variety for multiple outfits! I have about 12 yards of this pinky mauve cotton lycra knit and in honor of Miss Lillian going to go to town on LDFA dresses… So this is so timely… I know you discussed one time using a woven pattern with knits, can’t remember what you recommended for adjustments…
    Thanks Nancy for all that you do and bet you are having an awesome time this weekend….
    Cheers,
    Ronda from Bend

  • Starla
    May 7, 2016

    While I like them all, my top pick is 7290 — nice to have a light, loose jacket to throw on in the air-conditioned office!

  • Martha Hood-
    May 7, 2016

    Love all the patterns- but think the length of sleeves and jacket are one of my favorites on the # 7290. Thanks for all the tips like “wobble stitch” and the “anchor cloth” should help, always seem to have trouble with that – never heard or tried that should make my sewing easier. Do enjoy your postings- Have a good weekend – Thanks again

  • Barbara Lussier
    May 7, 2016

    I like #7331. I seldom sew knits for myself. This pattern would give me many different items to try and gain some confidence in sewing with knits.

  • Tina Jeo
    May 7, 2016

    Love all of the patterns. I think McCalls 7331 is very versatile! Thank you; these tips are great.

  • Allie Casey
    May 7, 2016

    I love sewing knits and have been doing so (sew!) since the early ’70s. Always great to see newest tips for sewing with knits. Love 7290 especially with a reversible knit. Thanks, Nancy.

  • Glenda
    May 7, 2016

    I bought pattern # 7331 to get back to making my own clothes. What I like are the different pieces in the pattern. It looks like it would be easy to make changes on these pieces to create different looks. Since I will make the pieces in knit, I will use my Babylock Evolution Serger to piece them.

  • Jody Mason
    May 7, 2016

    I love 7353 and can see making it year round in different knits!

  • Mary B
    May 7, 2016

    Pattern #7331, I’m looking forward to going on a cruise in near future. This would be the perfect solution to my wardrobe needs, coordinating all pieces while getting the most use our of a few pieces. Perfect!!

  • Helene M Kirk
    May 7, 2016

    I just happened to have McCall’s 6607 out to make the top when I got these tips in my email.
    I have been sewing for many years & never heard of the “wobble” stitch but, then, I am not a quilter. I, primarily,
    make clothes, accessories & home décor.
    Been following Nancy for a long time. Always something
    new I can learn!

  • Martha
    May 7, 2016

    I would have to say McCall’s 7331 because I just bought it. My next choice would be #7290, so cute. Thanks for the great tips.

  • SUE ANDERSON
    May 7, 2016

    I really like the tops in McCalls 7252, they are perfect for work or play.

  • Pamela D Miller
    May 7, 2016

    I would like to try 7152. It is so cute and looks easy enough for me to get started sewing with knits. Thanks for a chance to win, Nancy. I am very interested in learning to sew with knit fabrics. They are so comfortable to wear and do not wrinkle like cottons. I do have a serger.

  • Beverly W
    May 7, 2016

    I love #7290. It’s so perfect for cool nights in Miami. I’ve learned so many useful tips watching your videos. Thanks Nancy!

    • Kathie Guernsey
      May 7, 2016

      I have 2 copies of 7353. I made 3: a dress and 2 tops in just a few days. 7331 is the way I love to dress.I worked at a fabric store so I could buy a server. Now I have a newer one. Sewing is a breeze.

  • Meg Hinson
    May 7, 2016

    Favorite pattern 7331. I have always been afraid to sew knits. I would love to learn how.

  • Carol J
    May 7, 2016

    I particularly like 7290 because of the versatility. Pattern 7231 also has options to let creative juices bubble up.

  • Frances
    May 7, 2016

    7290 is probably my fave, although 6607 is a close runner-up. Thanks for the give-away!

  • Peggy
    May 7, 2016

    I really like the 7331 with the many options, very cute.

  • Anne Z
    May 7, 2016

    7525 is my favorite. Love the tips because sewing hems in knits has frustrated me in the past.

  • Vicki M.
    May 7, 2016

    Oh wow–I really like McCalls 7290! I just moved to New England from Texas and I am learning to keep a wrap handy. That one is perfect.

  • faith king
    May 7, 2016

    7331 is so versatile, that’s the one I would choose to make multiples.

  • Corinne
    May 7, 2016

    I’ve shied away from sewing knits until now, but I feel ready to try. I really like like the McCall’s 7290 jacket. Thanks for the hints and the giveaway!

  • Eldene
    May 7, 2016

    Love the 7290 ….will be buying it!

  • Martie in CA
    May 7, 2016

    # 7331 looks so versatile that a whole wardrobe could be made for a carefree vacation, or at work. I love it and in a lovely winkle free slinky poly it will fit perfectly in a carryon. It looks to me that with your careful instructions I could be done in a day with the whole wardrobe.

  • Kathy Renz
    May 7, 2016

    The dress in 7152 is versatile and adorable.

  • Myra Lovett
    May 7, 2016

    Love #7331. Love the different looks with just a few pieces, colors and patterns. Great travel wardrobe! I want a serger! Great tutorial Nancy, as always. Been watching you for years!

  • Marty
    May 7, 2016

    I have never seen knits so need all these tips before making my first attempt!

  • Kelly Sasman
    May 7, 2016

    7290 is on my list of patterns to get since attending you lecture this weekend. It was great and rereading most of your tips here again is so helpful.

  • Brenda Howard
    May 8, 2016

    I love the 7353 pattern dress, I am in a wheelchair and dresses are easier for me to wear. I really need to learn to make my own because I have trouble finding ready to wear that is long enough or that hits me in the right spot around my stomach. I am a quilter and haven’t done clothes sewing in ages time to get on the ball.

  • Donna Cox
    May 8, 2016

    Pattern #7331 is on my list. Thank you Nancy for all your wonderful tips for sewing on knits. Can’t wait to try this one.

  • Karen
    May 8, 2016

    My favorite pattern is the dress, 7353. I can imagine it in so many kinds of knits. Thank you for the video. It was very helpful.

  • Karen P
    May 8, 2016

    Great tips Nancy thanks, I love the pattern 7331, great pieces in this pattern.

  • Barb L
    May 8, 2016

    Love 7331 as the styles are so classic. And thanks for all the tips. I need to practice working with the serger on knit fabrics.

  • gail livingstone
    May 8, 2016

    I love 7331 – thanks so much for these – I love sewing with knits.
    thanks

  • Sandi
    May 8, 2016

    Love all the patterns especially with pants!!

  • Linda Rupe
    May 8, 2016

    I love 6607 and have made it for my younger daughter and granddaughter. My younger daughter lives in NYC and finds this to be an ideal garment for travelling: paired with some comfy leggings or yoga pants and turtle neck, it is comfy and cozy on long flights but looks nice. I modified this pattern for a swimsuit cover up for my granddaughter when she couldn’t find one she liked but we found fabric she loved! I would also like to make 7252 and 7290.

  • Barbara Jacinto
    May 8, 2016

    All of your patterns are great. First choice is 7331. Thank you for these great techniques. I am sitting here looking at some knit fabric and will use them. Again, we appreciate your knowledge and look forward to learning more.

  • darlene
    May 8, 2016

    it helps immensely to use a walking foot hemming, rather than trying to struggle with the movement of the fabric, as well as sewing straight lines … a walking foot with a schmetz, twin stretch needle, perfection ….

  • Bev M
    May 8, 2016

    I would like to make pattern 7353 for a family wedding.

  • Martha
    May 8, 2016

    One of the patterns with pants. Will have to look more closely at the patterns. Thanks for the. Will use them this week when sewing onesies.

  • Martha
    May 8, 2016

    One of the patterns with pants. Will have to look more closely at the patterns. Thanks for t
    . use them this week when sewing onesies.

  • Mary Green
    May 8, 2016

    I need a simple dress so 7152 would fit the bill.

  • Margaret Graczyk
    May 8, 2016

    These tips are great to have, so now it’s time to stock up on some utility notions to get started. I think I’d like to start small and McCall’s M6915 is calling out to me saying, “C’mon Grandma!! Your two special grand daughters will look sooo cute in these!!”. I would LOVE to win this pattern 🙂

  • karen christensen
    May 9, 2016

    I like McCalls 7331 by Nancy Zieman the best. I bought the pattern when it first came out because it looked so versatile but haven’t had a chance to sew it up yet. Love your knit tips.

  • Kathleen Anteau
    May 9, 2016

    Pattern 7252 looks like it’s just the ticket for retirment clothes! It’s the best adventure and easy-peasy clothes fit the ticket!

  • Agnes Scheuermann
    May 9, 2016

    Mc Calls 7331 looks the most interesting.

  • CECILIA
    May 9, 2016

    I WOULD LOVE TO SEW 7252, I TRIED TO FIND THIS PATTERN WITHOUT SUCCESS. USED TO SEW A LOT WITH KNITS, BUT HAVE NOT DONE SO IN A WHILE. THIS IS SUCH A FLATTERING PATTERN.

  • Mary Smith
    May 9, 2016

    McCall’s 7252 reminds me of a pattern I made back in the 70’s or 80’s when t-shirt knits were so popular. It was the beginning of freedom from tight fitting garments. Now that time has brought this looseness back, I think I may need to find some knit fabric and give it a try again. Who doesn’t love style and comfort!

  • KayZee
    May 9, 2016

    McCalls 7290 jacket is my favorite. Thanks for these great tips. I’m sure they’ll come in handy with my next knit project, a skirt.

  • Joyce
    May 12, 2016

    I really love all the designs but especially the knit jacket – how versatile that is! Knits are so comfortable and can be combined is so many ways, dress up, dress down – your choice. Very travel friendly too.

  • Anita Kopriva
    May 12, 2016

    I just love, love both 7353 and 7252! I also have the pattern 7331 awaiting my upcoming summertime off from teaching 4th Grade. Can’t hardly wait to get sewing for next year!

  • Sachi Lai
    May 13, 2016

    I love the shaped hem in Pattern 6607 and View C in Pattern 7252. Thank you for your helpful tips in using the serger.

  • Karen Patterson
    May 13, 2016

    I love the 7353 dress pattern! Thank you for all your wonderful tips! I am looking forward to sewing some knits now. You have given me so many answers. I haven’t sewed any stretchy knits before. Now I can’t wait to try! I never thought of using the stretchy elastic or the Easy seam tape. Nor did I know about the wobble stitch! Thanks so much!

  • Karen Patterson
    May 13, 2016

    I also love the 7331….these jackets would look great over my dress! I need to have something to layer up with because of my low thyroid….my arms can become very cold and also to hide a little extra weight. It is so wonderful to have your videos and books. Since I learned to sew on my own you have been my greatest teacher….Thank you again!

  • Ginger
    May 16, 2016

    I learned to sew from my mom but I learned to have fun sewing with Nancy! Love the tips about knits because 90% of what I wear ends up being a knit fabric!

  • L Watson
    May 18, 2016

    I would choose pattern #7331. It looks to be the most versatile. I have had trouble in the past sewing knits. With all the extra knowledge you’ve passed along, it wouldn’t seem as daunting. Thanks for all the great tips, Nancy!

  • Valerie
    June 19, 2016

    Jacket from 7331.

  • Anita Kopriva
    July 28, 2016

    As an elementary school teacher I have already started sewing some knit outfits to go back to school. One pattern I used was Nancy’s McCall’s pattern 7331. I would be totally lost if it weren’t for Nancy’s wonderful hints for sewing stretch knits. The challenges I faced were less daunting viewing Nancy’s videos and write ups on working with these fabrics! Thanks so much for taking the uncertainty of of working with this fabric because I love the comfort and styles of stretch knits!

  • pssews
    August 10, 2016

    I would love to sew McCall’s 7252, the cowl neck tunic. I’m so glad the cowl neck is back in style. It is cozy and relaxed. The longer tunic style is so comfortable and covers a lot of bulge!!

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