By Emily Jansson, Nancy’s Notions guest blogger
I’ve been going a little overboard on projects lately. With Sewing Weekend 2016 fast approaching, my studio is looking more and more like a tornado hit it. When my supplies are in chaos, so is my mental state. Something needed to be done.
What do I do when I’m feeling out of control? I organize like a madwoman. This project was born when I thought I’d run out of sharps in the midst of a late-night stitching spree. I needed all of my needle packs fully visible, and in one place…and fast.
This organizer whips up in an afternoon, and boasts 32 slots for your needle packs. The clear vinyl allows you to see your whole inventory at a glance. The elastic closure lets you pack it up neatly to store out of sight or pack for class. Hope you like it!
- 1/3 yd. Peltex 2-Sided Fusible Interfacing
- Outer fabric: scrap measuring at least 10″ x 15-1/2″
- Lining fabric: scrap measuring at least 10″ x 15-1/2″
- 1/8 yd. Clear Vinyl
- 1 pack Fuse ‘n Bind Fusible Binding Tape
- 10″ Elastic 1″ wide or less (We used a decorative 1″ wide elastic.)
- 6″ x 24″ Ruler
- Marking pen
- Rotary cutter and mat
- Iron and ironing surface
- Teflon sheet (or parchment paper)
- Wonder Clips
- Teflon Foot
- Sewing machine, etc.
Begin by cutting the following:
- Peltex 2-sided fusible interfacing: 10″ x 15-1/2″
- Outer fabric: 10″ x 15-1/2″
- Lining fabric: 10″ x 15-1/2″
- Clear vinyl: 4 strips, cut at 1-1/2″ x 15-1/2″
- Elastic: 10″
- Approximately 54″ of 2″ wide strip for binding (You may need to piece for length.)
Mark the lining side as shown:
- Attach the Teflon Foot and set your stitch length to a longer stitch—around a 3–4.
- Lay the clear vinyl strips in marked areas and secure with Wonder Clips at the ends. Stitch a scant 1/8″ along the bottom of each strip to secure.
- Stitch the divider rows that run perpendicular to the strips, as marked, but do not stitch the foldlines. It’s best to sew these rows from bottom to top of the organizer, so that the vinyl lies as flat as possible.
- Fuse the remaining outer fabric to the other side of your divider. At this point, you may need to remark the foldlines on the inside if they’ve disappeared while you’re fusing.
- Stitch the marked foldlines through all layers.
- Place the elastic on the outer back of the divider 1-1/2″ from edge and stitch at both ends to secure.
- Mark 1/2″ in from the left side of each corner with a pin, as shown.
- Center the fusible (rough) side of Fuse ‘n Bind to wrong side of the binding strip (10 seconds without steam).
- Fold one short end toward the inside and press to make a crisp, finished end.
- With the folded end on your left, fold the lower long edge of the binding up to the inside, along the Fuse ‘n Bind Fusible, and press.
- Align the unpressed long side of binding to the lower right edge of the inside of your divider, and secure with Wonder Clips. Starting about 1″ from the short side of your binding, stitch 1/2″ from the edge until you’ve reached the first of your marking pins. Backstitch to secure.
- Fold the binding up at a 45-degree angle, aligning the cut edges of the binding with the cut edge of the divider.
- Now fold the binding back on itself, matching the binding fold to the bottom edge of the divider, where you just finished stitching. The raw edge of the binding should align with the side of the divider.
- Begin stitching again, a 1/2″ seam all the way to the next corner’s marking pin. Backstitch, and repeat that folding technique at each corner.
- When you’ve reached your starting point, tuck the end of your binding into the beginning, trim any excess fabric, and finish the remaining seam.
- Press the binding up, flip over to the front of the divider, and clip. At each corner, make the same mitered fold on the outer side (I like to use Nancy’s suggestion and pin this part.).
- Stitch the binding down, a scant 1/8″ from the open edge.
Thanks to Emily Jansson and the Nancy’s Notions Team for sharing this tutorial!
Bye for now,