Nancy Zieman's Absolute Easiest Way to Hem Anything

If you’re stitching, there’s a good chance your project will have a hem. Nearly everything we sew has a hem—skirts, pants, sleeves, and home décor items such as curtains and table linens. Using Nancy Zieman’s Absolute easiest Way to Hem, turn hemming into a simple sewing task.

Find Nancy’s hemming tips and more in her Sewing With Nancy three-part series on The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew (Part OnePart Two, and Part Three).

 

Nancy Zieman's Absolute Easiest Way to Hem Anything

Preparing the Hem

1. Fold up the hem.

  • Prepress the hem on each flat pattern/garment piece before stitching it to another piece. This is one of Nancy’s great time-saving techniques.
  • Use Clover’s Hot Ruler to provide an accurate measurement and to avoid leaving a hem impression on the right side of the fabric. Place the Hot ruler on the wrong side of the fabric.
  • Fold up the hem allowances over the gauge to the desired width and press.

Nancy Zieman's Absolute Easiest Way to Hem AnythingClover's Hot Ruler

2. Grade seam allowances within the hem area to reduce bulk.
Nancy Zieman's Absolute Easiest Way to Hem AnythingClover's 5-1:8" Bordeaux Ultimate Scissors 130
3. Finish cut edge of the hem by zigzagging or serging.
Nancy Zieman's Absolute Easiest Way to Hem Anything

Machine Stitched Hem

Nancy Zieman's Absolute Easiest Way to Hem Anything
Note From Team Nancy Zieman Productions 
Attach the 6-in-1 Stick ‘n Stitch Guide, on the free arm of your sewing machine to help guide fabric in an even distance from the fold of the hem.
Clover 6-in-1 Stick 'n Stitch Guide

Hand Stitched Hem

  • Thread a Hand Sewing Needle with a single strand of thread.
  • Cut thread about 18″ long. The thread will tangle and knot more easily if it is too long. Knot one end of the thread.
  • Fold the back hem edge so that 1/4″ of the edge shows.

I Sew For Fun Hand Sewing NeedlesNancy Zieman's Absolute Easiest Way to Hem Anything

  • Work from right to left, taking a tiny stitch in the hem; then take a tiny stitch in the project – about 1/4″ ahead of that stitch. Pick up only one or two threads in the fabric.
  • Take a stitch in the hem edge about 1/4″ ahead of the last stitch.
  • Repeat, alternating stitches between the hem edge and the project. Don’t pull the stitches too tight or the hem will pucker.

Nancy Zieman's Absolute Easiest Way to Hem Anything

Blind Hem

  • Fold back the project edge so about 1/4″ of the hem edge shows.
  • Attach the Edge Joining Presser Foot or the Blind Hem Foot to your sewing machine.
  • Adjust your sewing machine for a blind hem stitch as detailed in your owner’s manual.
  • Place the fabric under the presser foot. Turn the flywheel by hand towards you until the needle fully swings to the left. If the needle “bites” too much of the fabric or doesn’t catch the fold, adjust the guide on the foot so that the needle only stitches through the fabric fold.

Edge Joining Foot Available at ShopNZP.com

  • Continue by slowly stitching, so that the straight stitch falls in the hem allowance and the zig just catches the project at the fold.

Edge Joining Foot Available at ShopNZP.com

Note From Team Nancy Zieman Productions Consider using Monofiliment Thread, when stitching the blind hem stitch—a great ready-to-wear technique.

Fusible Hem

Using un-backed fusible web for hemming
  •  Cut strips of Pellon’s Wonder Under Fusible and place along the wrong side of the hem edge.

Nancy Zieman's Absolute Easiest Way to Hem Anything

  • Serge or zigzag the fusible web to the hem edge. If you zigzag, be sure the web doesn’t extend past the hem edge or it will stick to your iron when you fuse. Trim off any web that goes past the edge.

Nancy Zieman's Absolute Easiest Way to Hem Anything

  • Fold under the hem. Measure so the entire hem is the same width. Pin.

Nancy Zieman's Absolute Easiest Way to Hem Anything

  • Press per manufacturer’s directions.

Nancy Zieman's Absolute Easiest Way to Hem Anything

Using paper-backed fusible web for hemming
  • Cut a 1/2″–3/4″ wide strip of paper-backed fusible web, or purchase the precut paper-backed fusible web on a roll.
  • Position the web side of the paper-backed fusible to the wrong side of the hem. Place the web 1/4″ below the hem edge. Press.Nancy Zieman's Absolute Easiest Way to Hem Anything

Nancy Zieman's Absolute Easiest Way to Hem Anything

  • Remove the paper backing.

Nancy Zieman's Absolute Easiest Way to Hem Anything

  • Fold under the hem; measure so the entire hem is the same width. Fuse.

Nancy Zieman's Absolute Easiest Way to Hem Anything

Watch The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew (Part One, Part Two, and Part Threeon Sewing With Nancy online.

 

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The randomly selected winner of a Stitch it! Sisters 5″ Fabric Short Stackwith S!S button & sticker, from the March 28 and 31 Blog Posts, NEW! Stitch it! Sisters Carefree Curves in Quilts Program 112, and FREE! Carefree Curves in Quilts Half-Circle Block Sewing Tutorial, is Christi.

Her comment is: I love curve sewing so this would be a great addition.

Happy Sewing!

Team Nancy Zieman

Nancy Zieman Productions. LLC.

 

 

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