M7201-Nancy Zieman Swing Jacket by McCallsSewing a jacket may sound overwhelming, but not so when you use my new pattern, from The McCall Pattern Company. The swing style with asymmetrical or cropped styling is flattering to wear and best of all, streamlined to sew.

M7210 Swing Jacket by Nancy Zieman for McCall's Pattern CompanyIn last week’s blog you learned how to construct the basic jacket—shoulders, sleeves, and side seams. Today, you’ll see how a continuous facing finishes the back neck, front, and hemline edges—neat—clean—nice!


  • Press fusible interfacing to wrong side of the Back Neck and Front Facing pieces, following manufacturer’s instructions.
  • Serge or zigzag outer edges of Back Neck Facing, Front Facing, Front Hemline Facing, and Back Hemline Facing.

Stitch Facings

  • Align and pin right sides and match notches of Front Facing and Back Neck Fabric at shoulder seams; stitch seams.

  • Press seams flat; then open.
  • Align and pin right sides of Front Hem Facings to Back Hem facing at side seams; stitch seams.

  • Serge or zigzag outer edges of Back Neck Facing, Front Facing, Front Hemline Facing, and Back Hemline Facing.
  • Attach the hem facing unit to the back neck and front facing unit. The facings are all sewn together, creating a facing unit. This unit will finish all the outer edges, including the hemline.

Stitch Facing Unit to Jacket

Note from Nancy: The facing unit will be stitched to the jacket, section by section, not in one continuous seam as you might expect. Follow along—the jacket corners will be effortless to sew and turn out perfectly!

  • Align and pin right sides and notches of facing unit to jacket along the neckline.

  • Stitch the neckline seam.
  • Grade the seam allowance, trimming the facing seam the narrowest width.

  • Press the seam allowance toward the facing.
  • Understitch, stitching the seam allowance to the facing.

Note from Nancy: The white thread has been added digitally, making it easier to see. In real life, I used coordinating thread.

  • Align and pin right sides and notches of front facing to jacket front.

Note from Nancy: Notice the seam allowances at the neckline corner are already graded and understitched. This sewing process will give you perfect corners! And, as before, the white stitching has been added only to illustrate the stitch. Coordinating thread should be used.

  • Stitch the jacket front seam.
  • Grade the seam allowances, trimming the facing seam the narrowest width.

  • Understitch the seam allowances to the facing, stitching from the hemline to the neckline. Stitch as far to the corner as possible.
  • Align and pin right sides and notches of jacket hem facing to jacket. Stitch the jacket hem seam.
  • Grade the seam allowances, trimming the facing seam the narrowest width.
  • Turn jacket right side out, aligning the seam along the jacket edges; press.
  • Pin facing to the jacket.

Topstitch Facing to Jacket—Both Views

  • Set machine for a straight stitch.
  • Topstitch from the facing side, sewing along the serged or zigzag edge.

Note from Nancy: Generally I would recommend stitching from the right side. In this case, the facing provides a perfect sewing guide, eliminating the need to measure the stitching distance from the outer edges.

Finishing touches

  • Fold up the hem allowance at the sleeve; pin. Topstitch the hem in place.
  • Stitch a buttonhole on the jacket right front. Cut the opening.
  • Hand stitch the button to the left side of the jacket front.
For more information on applying facings, creating buttonholes, and grading seam allowances, see my book, The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew.
This book is a lifetime compilation of techniques that make sewing fun and easy for all skill levels. You’ll learn about sewing tools, easy sewing techniques, how to use a sewing machine and serger, how to select and use fabrics and patterns, and how easy it is to sew simple projects.

Watch The Absolute Easiest Way to Sew (Part One, Part Two, and Part Three) on Sewing With Nancy online. 

To watch Sewing With Nancy on your iPad, iPod Touch, or iPhone, download the app.

The Absolute Easiest way to Sew by Nancy Zieman/Sewing With Nancy

For a chance to win a copy of my new Swing Jacket Pattern, simply leave me a comment sharing what fabric type you’ll be using in your jacket project. A winner will be randomly selected on Aug. 25.

M7201-Nancy Zieman Swing Jacket by McCalls

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Nancy Zieman The Blog

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