Baby Lock's National Serger Round Up Nancy ZiemanA single-layer jacket can easily be sewn and serged with ease when choosing knit fleece or a Ponte knit fabric. Perfect for three-season enjoyment, the Cape Cod Jacket Pattern has perfect style lines to showcase serger stitches.

Nancy Zieman Cape Cod Jacket Sew Knits with Confidence

I’d like to show you how I used a serged seam as a feature on this casual jacket. A basic 3-thread serger stitch is all that’s needed and a little serger know-how.

Decorative Serger Settings

  • Set your serger for a 3-thread overlock stitch.
  • Use decorative or contrasting thread in the upper and lower loopers. I used a black textured nylon.
  • Test stitch length and stitch width on a scrap of fabric. Determine the settings that you like best.

How to use a serger sewing machine Nancy ZiemanDecorative Serged Seams

  • Trim off one of the seam allowances along the diagonal seam. In this case, the seam allowance is 1/2″. Use a rotary cutter, ruler, and mat.

How to use a serger sewing machine Nancy ZiemanHow to use a serger sewing machine Nancy Zieman



  • Serge a decorative stitch along the diagonal, stitching on the right side of the fabric.

How to use a serger sewing machine Nancy Zieman

  • Serger stitches look different on the front than the wrong side. To have the same look, it’s important to stitch from the right side of the fabric. One front will be serged from top to hem, the second from hem to top.
  • To make it easier to feed the “bottom to top” stitching—notice the point of the hem area—begin serging on a scrap of fabric (an anchor cloth). Butt the jacket to the anchor cloth and continue serging the edge.
  • After the serging is complete, clip off the anchor cloth. Presto!

How to use a serger sewing machine Nancy Zieman


  • Add a drop of a seam sealant, such as Fray Block or Fray Check, at each seam end to lock the stitches.
  • Place the fabric on paper toweling, apply a very small drop to the end of the thread tails, and press the thread with an iron to expedite the drying process.

National Serger Month Nancy Zieman


  • Mark a 1/2″ seam allowance on the right side of the Side Front, using a fabric marking pen.
  • Overlap Front to Side Front along marked line; pin.

National Serger Month Nancy Zieman

  • Edgestitch along the serged finish.

How to use a serger sewing machine Nancy Zieman

Do you prefer your serged seams on the inside?

Stitch this jacket with traditional serged seams. The stitching is fast—the look equally as fun!
National Serger Month Nancy Zieman

National Serger Month Nancy Zieman

Nancy Zieman's Giveaway Winner

Debra is the random winner of a copy of the book, Double Wedding Ring Quilts, thanks to C & T Publishing. She said: Gorgeous eye candy! I admire Victoria’s fresh approach to timeless and traditional quilts. Thank you for a chance to win her book.

Double Wedding Ring Quilts by Victoria Findlay Wolfe as seen on Sewing With Nancy

Bye for now,

Nancy Zieman The Blog

Nancy Zieman—author, pattern designer, businesswomen, producer, and national sewing authority—is the host of the popular show Sewing With Nancy®, which appears on public television stations across the United States and Canada and streams online at Follow Nancy’s Blog at and sign up to receive Nancy’s E-News for the latest news in Sewing, Quilting, & Creating.
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